Krullibulls Ae86 BEAMS is the only way
01-23-2016, 12:27 PM
Post: #31
Krullibulls Ae86 BEAMS is the only way
Look great, some good work.
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01-25-2016, 11:20 PM
Post: #32
Krullibulls Ae86 BEAMS is the only way
Got some more done this weekend. Need to pick things up a bit if I'm going to drive it this summer Sleepy

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Got the engine in where it will go. Was quite fiddly to get it good and I f*ed up the transmission tunnel more then necessary.

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Engine mounts done! No pics of the gearbox mount but that is done as well although it might need some reinforcements.

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Engine is in and sitting on my mounts! Did not space down the subframe, the anti roll bar clears and the hood should close Thumbs up!

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Started welding up the holes in the transmission tunnel. Didn't have time to fully weld it but almost. Always seem to get in the zone just before I have to leave


(01-23-2016 12:27 PM)mannix20vt Wrote:  Look great, some good work.

Thanks! Smile
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01-26-2016, 08:06 AM
Post: #33
Krullibulls Ae86 BEAMS is the only way
well done, I hope to make some progress with my welding soon too (so far only managed to get the top of the front strut towers welded)

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01-26-2016, 09:41 PM
Post: #34
Krullibulls Ae86 BEAMS is the only way
(01-26-2016 08:06 AM)Bean Bandit Wrote:  well done, I hope to make some progress with my welding soon too (so far only managed to get the top of the front strut towers welded)

I think it goes ok for a first try Smile
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01-26-2016, 10:32 PM
Post: #35
Krullibulls Ae86 BEAMS is the only way
(01-26-2016 09:41 PM)krullibull Wrote:  
(01-26-2016 08:06 AM)Bean Bandit Wrote:  well done, I hope to make some progress with my welding soon too (so far only managed to get the top of the front strut towers welded)

I think it goes ok for a first try Smile
Wished I managed more but the galvanised panels still make it real hard for TIG welding. If all fails I'll have to try and MIG it.
Also need to borrow/buy/build a spot welder for the doors and rear hatch.

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01-26-2016, 11:21 PM
Post: #36
Krullibulls Ae86 BEAMS is the only way
Dont weld galvanized steel.. that stuff is really toxic. Clean the galvanization off of the welded edges.

FABRICA MI DIEM, PVNC!
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01-27-2016, 07:31 AM
Post: #37
Krullibulls Ae86 BEAMS is the only way
(01-26-2016 11:21 PM)Ivan141 Wrote:  Dont weld galvanized steel.. that stuff is really toxic. Clean the galvanization off of the welded edges.
I know (respirator) and I did clean the crap out of it but there's still the smallest amount of residue left behind which makes the arc dance around more than I'd like (Think Ghostbusters style fighting with the directionality of the ray).

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02-05-2016, 04:27 PM
Post: #38
Krullibulls Ae86 BEAMS is the only way
(01-27-2016 07:31 AM)Bean Bandit Wrote:  
(01-26-2016 11:21 PM)Ivan141 Wrote:  Dont weld galvanized steel.. that stuff is really toxic. Clean the galvanization off of the welded edges.
I know (respirator) and I did clean the crap out of it but there's still the smallest amount of residue left behind which makes the arc dance around more than I'd like (Think Ghostbusters style fighting with the directionality of the ray).

Here's my tips for getting successful welds:
28A (without pedal)
A slight up slope and a very short down slope.
1.0mm Purple electrode with a long sharp point
1.2mm filler

I used the lay wire technique almost everywhere and kept a tight arc. That's what got me the best results.
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02-06-2016, 10:46 AM (This post was last modified: 02-06-2016 10:49 AM by Bean.)
Post: #39
Krullibulls Ae86 BEAMS is the only way
(02-05-2016 04:27 PM)krullibull Wrote:  
(01-27-2016 07:31 AM)Bean Bandit Wrote:  
(01-26-2016 11:21 PM)Ivan141 Wrote:  Dont weld galvanized steel.. that stuff is really toxic. Clean the galvanization off of the welded edges.
I know (respirator) and I did clean the crap out of it but there's still the smallest amount of residue left behind which makes the arc dance around more than I'd like (Think Ghostbusters style fighting with the directionality of the ray).

Here's my tips for getting successful welds:
28A (without pedal)
A slight up slope and a very short down slope.
1.0mm Purple electrode with a long sharp point
1.2mm filler

I used the lay wire technique almost everywhere and kept a tight arc. That's what got me the best results.
I'll give it a shot thanks.

also bought a spotwelder (it'll be Mai before I have it, it's still in the US) but that should at least make work easy on the doors and hatch Smile

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02-28-2016, 06:48 PM
Post: #40
Krullibulls Ae86 BEAMS is the only way
Things haven't being standing still even if it seems that way here.

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Finished the gearbox tunnel. It's not pretty but it'll work, first time I do any extensive metal fabrication on a car.

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My flywheel and clutch arrived as well so now the gearbox is mated to the engine for some time I hope Tongue

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Measured up the driveshaft, not a huge difference.

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Started sorting out the loom. There was quite alot that could be removed.

Debating which way I should go with the loom, I have 3 options that I can do.

1. Use a grommet trough the firewall and just use crimp joints with heatshrink between the engine and Link wires

2. Use a grommet trough the firewall and use all of the link wires and re pin the connectors on the engine.

3. Use a Multipin connector on the firewall, some of the engines wires needs to be extended tho. And I'm worried of interference with the shielded wires.

In all options the wires will be in sleeves ofc.
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