My 1986 AE86 project

Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 12:10 am Post subject: My 1986 AE86 project

Hi,

so i bought LevinGT's 1986 Levin.

AE86 : Projects > My 1986 AE86 project

main welding has all been done already but the outside needs some tlc besides some minor welding around the body and fixing the underside of the doors.
so on the phone 'all day' with ppl who can make things straight and paint things like cars.
when i get the car i will drive afterwards right away to a shop that will analyse the car and give me a rough est. what i'll have to pay to get a 'new' looking Levin.
then the repaint process begins (same white color with a nice blank touch afterwards).

AE86 : Projects > My 1986 AE86 project

compression test, internal examination of the engine, new oil filter, new oil, new sparkplugs, new fuelfilter, bushings, other catback, Apex/Levin stickers for on the back when painted ... all busy with it or on it's way.

the a/f meter or the lambda is broken i think, oil temp is in F and not Celsius so those will be replaced together with the oil pressure meter.

some questions:
- how rich is the stock ecu? pig rich or moderate? stoich under cruise?
- open intake with open exhaust: dangerous for a/f or save to let's say autoX (not going to drift the car)? should i buy a piggy to be save?
- anyone experience with an oilcooler that gets and delivers the oil from/to the adapter under the oilfilter? pressure drops? temp drops and how steady under what load? 'nessesary' mod or bogus?
- anybody any idea or rough guess what the colorcode is? to many white colors i found ...

my other project is my Elford which can be seen on my homepage. and that car is going to the welder in a few weeks. that's my other project but not ae86 or piston based so i will be quiet Smile

hope to see you all on some meeting some day!

greetings from the Netherlands from a true hardcore rotorhead with a passion for the AE86 (and no, not going to put a 12A, REW or 20B in it).

AE86 : Projects > My 1986 AE86 project

Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 7:08 am Post subject:

I've never heard any talk of open airfilters/exhausts being dangerous for the engine. There are plenty of oilcooler setups available that would need a diffeent sandwichplate on the engine block. The stock system is a pressure-bypass, which is not very good since oil pressure drops when the oil gets hotter, you can imagine this is less then ideal. If you're going to use the engine intesively and want all the cooling you can, might as well accept a possible drop in pressure, otherwise juse a thermostatic bypass to minimise the drawbacks. No idea about the A/F ratio's.. a wideband would be a nice touch if you're replacing the lambda sensor since the MAP sensored version doesnt need a regular lambda anyway (unless it has a catalysator).

Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 10:27 am Post subject:

Judging from that engine shot I think that engine is the standard Euro MAP so probably no lambda and no AF-meter and probably no catalyc converter.

Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 10:48 am Post subject:

('

') Hi all, indeed Banpei, Map no cat , I used lamba sensor just to hook up the A/F meter, it's a pre-heated one,but as ibmfd3s mentioned earlier maybe broken Confused

Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 2:21 pm Post subject:

mmm....what a nice example... Smile

reminds me of my rolla;)

keep her in good shape man! Wink

adam

Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 5:21 pm Post subject:

Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 12:19 pm Post subject:

stragne thing is that when i cruise above 100 km/hour the meter goes to lean so i think the lambda sendor is faulty.

Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:17 pm Post subject:

Lean under cruising is pretty normal. If it shows rich mixtures under accel the meter should be allright.

Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:23 pm Post subject:

that's just the thing, under accel when engine is at normal temp mixure leans out, ehh the gauge does Confused

, but with cold engine and accel, reading is rich. which is normal, I guess.

Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 1:23 am Post subject:

information collected. car will be parted, sanded, worked on, welded, primered, sanded, painted and so within a few weeks time. will do some work myself as i like the car a lot. same 041 white color goes on as i like the color on the car/model. and i'll take piccies of the happening.
cumming sunday is tacn meeting in Lunteren and i'll visit the meeting with the Hatchi.

Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 9:01 am Post subject:

And I was just about to post about VIN and color codes Smile

but you found it already;)

TACN meeting in lunteren? I don't think the wife will appreciate me going, awell maybe next time.

Hoe vind je trouwens een elford in zo'n verlaten staat zeg Sad

goed dat je daar ook mee bezig bent, die dingen zijn ubercool.

Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2007 9:36 am Post subject:

I didn't think it was a tacn meeting, but more or less tacn attending the Japanese classic sunday. Wink

Too bad it is on sunday because on saturday I'll be in the neighbourhood but on sunday I have other obligations. Crying or Very sad

Edit: changed name and splitted offtopic dutch postings. Wink

Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2007 1:11 am Post subject:

welke bougies raden jullie aan qua merk en warmtegraad voor in een 4age?

Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2007 12:01 pm Post subject:

Please keep it in English because the topic is not in a regional section. Wink

I bought standard sparkplugs from the Brezan. Just said they were supposed to be in a 4age and they gave me some Japanese sparkplugs. They were the same brand as the ones I removed from the engine. I believe I have a pic of them somewhere.

Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2007 7:20 pm Post subject:

hey IBM we'll discuss the car when mux and I visit you. Don't worry it won't run away.

Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 6:36 pm Post subject:

well. i changed the dino oil to 1/2 syn (MPM) and i'm very happy with the oil. at first the engine used some oil and after the oil change i drove the car more in the upper revs. well, strange or not, the car uses less oil!. so every ride i drive the shit out of it once on advice of robo and it seems this 311k engine is happier then/than before.

Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 6:43 pm Post subject:

Sounds good!

Usually the stories of switching from dyno to synth on old engines are the reversed with the thinner oils with cleaner additives wreaking havoc in old engines.

Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 7:00 pm Post subject:

yeah, read that also but untill now everything ok. will be switching the oil again in several weeks time to optimise the lubrication. after the change i will visit Germany for a weekend, fingers crossed for that weekend. if everything is ok i will drive 2000/3000 km more and switch to full synt after a full flush of the oil system.

i wonder why engines fail after changing, i guess it has to do with the oil filter that becomes clogged? so i decided to change the oil filter every 500 km now to ensure it won't be clogged. and i'm not in the mood to saw all those filters in 1/2 to see if i'm right.

Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 7:43 pm Post subject:

Andreas,

Reasons I've heard about but haven't got any experience with are indeed mostly related to filth in the mineral oils that have gotten stuck in the engine coming loose due to the cleaning additives in the (semi) synth oils.

They could clog the filter but worse yet, as 'larger' piece come loose they can clog the smaller oil canals in your engine and slowly destroy your engine.

Also I've heard stories of engines with old gaskets that only still keep the oil in due to the filth collected in those gaskets, once the filth gets cleaned up by the better oils, the gaskets come apart and your engine starts leaking oil.

These offcourse are nightmare scenarios for which I do not know if they are likely or very unlikely and in what respect these are myths.

What I do know is that damaged and wear already done to your engine in its lifetime isn't undone by using newer oils so I really don't see much reason to switching to a much more expensive synth oil compared to a good quality mineral oil. Using mineral oil doesn't introduce new risks.

It is difficult to say now that the improvement in your engine is purely subjective or is due to the simple fact the old oil wasn't all that good to begin with and a similar effect would have been reached with a good mineral oil.

Synthetic oils are thinner and that can also cause some improvement as there is less resistance meaning a nicer reving engine, but again, keep in mind that with an old engine thats always run on mineral oils, clearances are far from factory and using thinner oils will only heighten the risk of trouble down the line.

Off course after a fresh rebuild of your engine, the story changes completely... I would always run a freshly rebuild engine on synths, here there is a definite difference between mineral and synth. Using mineral oil for rebuild engines could result in your newly build engine just wearing down quicker (all though I have heard of people using mineral oils for the brake-in of their engine because of that reason and because you don't rev a freshly rebuild engine anyway, then change to synth after brake-in, also saves you $$$).

(keep in mind, the above is my opinion after a lot of reading, but way to little practical experience, so I could be way wrong Wink

)

Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 9:25 pm Post subject:

My current engine slowly but surely went to hell after using full synthetic oil in it.. So I would not do that again myself..just put decent semisynth in an old 4age.

Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 9:31 pm Post subject:

Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 1:05 pm Post subject:

hey ivan it was gonne work .,...... but the engine was lazier than the one in ibm's car.

I drive full synth in my rebuild car and theprez will go run on full synth after have run a couple 1000 on semi synth. Its just better Smile

If the engine dies its just a bad engine.

Btw i still have an 7mge lambda sensor left somewhere here are you interested?

Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 5:13 pm Post subject:

It may be a bad engine, but who cares as long as it runs fine on mineral oil and doesnt burn oil by the gallon? Now I've spent 4 times the regular amount of money on oil on an engine I just swapped in with all new wear items.(+-400 euro's spent). Only to have it progressively start consuming more and more oil (people usually stay well behind me on the road because of the oil-stench). It's totally pointless to switch oils, an old engine has little use for full synthetic because the damage is already done.

I will personally stay well away from full-synth on old engine's in the future.

Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 12:43 pm Post subject:

me @ Zandvoort circuit
http://nl.youtube.com/watch?v=mwronRuUQXA

http://nl.youtube.com/watch?v=CdGpCNaP5mM
and braking HARD @ the end of the straight ... ueberlol with the Hachi!