Cams doubt
02-05-2013, 08:36 PM
Post: #21
Cams doubt
Bean Bandit Wrote:
Vaptor Wrote:Got to ask, are there any diffrence on a Head from a 3 Rip and a 7 Rip, besides one is Bigported and the other is smallported?

My plan was to use a Bigported Head from a 3 Rip Block, and a 7 Rip Block with oilsquirters.

sheesh nobody reads anymore... as Uzelac said any 4a/7a head will fit any 4a/7a block ... so no there are no differences fitting wise...

Wave

smallport head has a drain fitting... smallport 7 rib block also has drain fitting to match... largeport heads, 3 rib blocks, and many 7 rib blocks don't have drain fittings, 20V blocks have completely different oil pans.....

so although all heads will bolt to all blocks, care must be taken when mixing and matching

Dan -

You can |Sad .... OR you can ask for help!!!

OST Porting service - http://hachiroku.net/forums/showthread.php?t=19991
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02-05-2013, 08:50 PM
Post: #22
Cams doubt
T_AE86 Wrote:Thaks!!! Respect!

On the other hand, i was looking my removed engines, and i have a 3 rib (original of my zenki) and a 7 rib, i was reading a lot of info about their differences, but... Banging head

I think you'll recomend to rebuild the 7rib, but what are the "feeling difference"? is faster, stronger, ...?

Can i install a complete head from my zenki (3rib block) in a 7rib block?? (in toyodiy appears the same block in my two cars, and weren't the same)

most people who have driven both believe the 3 rib is a bit more fun then the 7 rib. This is primarily do to the fact that the 7 rib crank weighs one kilo more Huh Not only does the crank weigh more but the rods from a 3 rib are also lighter. In this case the difference isn't a kilo... but 60+ grams... which is considerable when traveling up and down @ over 7000 rpm!!!

Dan -

You can |Sad .... OR you can ask for help!!!

OST Porting service - http://hachiroku.net/forums/showthread.php?t=19991
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02-05-2013, 11:08 PM
Post: #23
Cams doubt
You can have 7rib with 40mm crank (but no squirters) so it will be equally fun as 3rib (40mm crank no squirters) Smile.

Not sure if those 2mm can make such a difference though Smile
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02-05-2013, 11:13 PM
Post: #24
Cams doubt
arent the late ae86 ones 7rib with lighter internals?
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02-06-2013, 02:50 AM
Post: #25
Cams doubt
AE86 always had lighter internals.
AE92 got redtop and redtop with smallport has heavier internals.
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02-07-2013, 12:34 AM
Post: #26
Cams doubt
Thanks everyone :wink:

oldeskewltoy Wrote:most people who have driven both believe the 3 rib is a bit more fun then the 7 rib. This is primarily do to the fact that the 7 rib crank weighs one kilo more Huh Not only does the crank weigh more but the rods from a 3 rib are also lighter. In this case the difference isn't a kilo... but 60+ grams... which is considerable when traveling up and down @ over 7000 rpm!!!

I heard about crank a long time ago...but i was thinking newer cranks were lighter than older. Thats a very good reason to choice the 3 rib block, i was almost sure...but... continue reading please Confused

On the other hand, i was talking about my 16v engines with friends (cranks, cams, valves,...), and someone offered me a complete 111 clip Undecided , i always prefered to keep the 16 with some modifications....but is not a secret that a 20v have slightly more original power...What do you think about this (16v or 20)?? Banging head

[Image: AEU86 AE86 - Cams doubt]
[Image: AEU86 AE86 - Cams doubt]
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02-07-2013, 01:04 AM
Post: #27
Cams doubt
T_AE86 Wrote:What do you think about this (16v or 20)?? Banging head
THIS

hence why I cherry picked the good pieces of each generation and put them together for my own engine build.
The 20V in my opinion is only a valid option in very specific circumstances.
Considering the fact you already have 16V parts, stick to them and spend the money you save because of that on more useful stuff than a 20V which MIGHT be in good condition.

AE86 ex-daily
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02-07-2013, 01:18 AM
Post: #28
Cams doubt
My personal opinion after installing and driving a 20v in a customers car, not worth the aggro to do it.
No torque, engine are silly expensive(800€ min) plus fitting kit (min 800€) will give you a little bit more top power, thats it!
If you spend thos 1600€ on your 16V you´ll end up with a similiar powered engine, but much nicer to drive.
I´d go 16v over 20v anyday.

1979 Toyota Corolla KE35
1983 Toyota Corolla AE86
1985 Toyota Corolla AE86
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02-07-2013, 08:17 AM
Post: #29
Cams doubt
Bean Bandit Wrote:
T_AE86 Wrote:What do you think about this (16v or 20)?? Banging head
THIS

hence why I cherry picked the good pieces of each generation and put them together for my own engine build.
The 20V in my opinion is only a valid option in very specific circumstances.
Considering the fact you already have 16V parts, stick to them and spend the money you save because of that on more useful stuff than a 20V which MIGHT be in good condition.
If you spend $5500 to swap in a BT I can see why you would be dissapionted! It can be done for a lot less Wink

I spend €2k including new bearings, gaskets, ECU ect. and for that kind of money its not easy to beat. For that kind of money you could rebuild a 16V but you would still have to get cams / ITBs / ECU... Unless you have a good strong running engine, then the mild build 16V is cheaper Wink

Also my friends and I found that the stock exhaust would only flow ~150 hp (same dyno). I went 20V+ECU, one went build 16V+cams+ITBs+ECU and one went 7AGE+cams+ECU (151, 150, 152 hp). 7AGE got a custom 2" system and went up to 159 Thumbs up! Tourqe wise the 20V was quite a bit better than 16V but both displayed the T50 problems: 3rd to 4th ratios.

I am not saying one is better than the other just that some of what you might find on the web might a little biased.

Sarcasme is just one of the things I offer Wink

Daily driver: '92 Toyota Carina E GTI
Rebuilt project: '86 Levin hatch
[Image: AEU86 AE86 - Cams doubt]
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02-07-2013, 08:19 AM
Post: #30
Cams doubt
Bean Bandit Wrote:
T_AE86 Wrote:What do you think about this (16v or 20)?? Banging head
THIS

hence why I cherry picked the good pieces of each generation and put them together for my own engine build.
The 20V in my opinion is only a valid option in very specific circumstances.
Considering the fact you already have 16V parts, stick to them and spend the money you save because of that on more useful stuff than a 20V which MIGHT be in good condition.
If you spend $5500 to swap in a BT I can see why you would be dissapionted! It can be done for a lot less Wink

I spend €2k including new bearings, gaskets, ECU ect. and for that kind of money its not easy to beat. For that kind of money you could rebuild a 16V but you would still have to get cams / ITBs / ECU... Unless you have a good strong running engine, then the mild build 16V is cheaper Wink

Also my friends and I found that the stock exhaust would only flow ~150 hp (same dyno). I went 20V+ECU, one went build 16V+cams+ITBs+ECU and one went 7AGE+cams+ECU (151, 150, 152 hp). 7AGE got a costum 2" system and went up to 159 Thumbs up! Tourqe wise the 20V was quite a bit better than 16V but both displayed the T50 problems: 3rd to 4th ratios.

I am not saying one is better than the other just that some of what you might find on the web might a little biased.

Sarcasme is just one of the things I offer Wink

Daily driver: '92 Toyota Carina E GTI
Rebuilt project: '86 Levin hatch
[Image: AEU86 AE86 - Cams doubt]
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