DIY: Hopeless project.

[Rascal21]

(10-07-2015 04:29 PM)pack Wrote:  What you mean is that the 20V when running properly will give you pop now and then?

I have the same issue on mine..... Always tought it was too rich...

Well, if I were you I would not worry too much.
If its running a bit too rich (gasoline showering out of the exhaust and into peoples faces) you can add an adjustable FPR and get to work, I got a Tomei FPR and 16v adapter (which mates well with the 20v also) and started fiddling with pressure, timing and idle adjustment, all in CEL mode, so in the end you get a good enough tune when you rev the piss out of it at idle.
But another thing entirely is when the ECU starts "learning" as you drive on the road (500km or whatever I heard is supposedly what it needs to "learn everything")

Running a little bit rich is apparently good and does no harm as far as I see or hear, rather a little rich and darker combustion chambers than a few tenths lean and melted pistons, also consider that the exhausts we all usually run with actually makes the 20v sound and seem like its running richer than it really is.

I`ve heard stories of commuter fwd 20v`s in far worse internal condition than rwd 20v`s owned by people like us, much like those 2.2 turbo Audi inline 5`s, the 4AGE 20v`s are built to be used and revved a little to stay happy.

Another thing to consider is you have to put your foot down when it goes to fuel pump, you want something that outputs 120lph at the same pressure as a inline Walbro 255 to reduce fuel temperature and all that stuff, I have a Bosch parts number for a inline pump that I`ve been using very successfully on the wagon 16v.

If you`re curious I can post what part number, ideally you should run a electronic carb pump for lift to fill a 2 liter catch tank from the main tank, with that Bosch pump for high pressure, and a vendor Subaru Impreza fuel filter between the Bosch and fuel line, this way you can theoretically (but not recommended for the lift pump) drift/race the main tank empty without leaning out and melting your engine.

I have a vid to share, but want to say my 20v has a heavy AW11 flywheel which put together with the stupid VSV (which I think is there to keep revs up for the A/C and P/S, as well as slow down rpm`s on coast to avoid too much backfire?) makes the VSV spend 5-10 gut wrenching seconds pushing on the throttle quadrant AFTER I let go off it (brand new vacuum hoses, supertight fitment, no leaks).

In this video the engine was cold, there is a little bit of water in the exhaust and I don`t like revving the piss out of it unless I`m actually driving, so I mooshed the quadrant and found the balance to keep the revs at around the VVT-i engagement point (which makes it sound like it`s under a little bit of load).

So lets compare my average RWD 20v conversion (mods are full race + heat wrapped exhaust+ITG foam race filter and P.A.S.S ITB trumpets), with this bone stock, up for sale AE111 Corolla GT with one of the higher revving M/T ECU`s getting the piss revved out of it:

Same idle as mine, same ticking as mine, same rich backfire on coast wind-down rpm as mine, same throttle response as mine.
I think it`s safe to say 20v`s are supposed to be like this.

By that I mean, these are designed to be "racey" little 1587cc (1.6L) engines to cater with the loud FWD "zip along curves" racer culture that fast arised back in the mid to late 90`s all over the world (And to professionally compete with 110-170hp Honda`s, Citroen`s, Peugot`s and VW`s on the track), if yours "poff and pang" a little it`s not doing something it wasnt designed for, I think you can buy adjustable FPR and fiddle a little with it, but you can still go to bed with a clear conscience