DIY: Hopeless project.

[Rascal21]

Adapting the 20v for RWD use can be difficult when you get into the little details.

As for the water route I opted for the cheaper 16v RWD layout, which all though some say creates hot spots in the back of the 20v head, I still felt that I wanted to keep the heater without complicating things and keeping costs low to avoid compromises on other aspects of the engine swap.
So here`s how I tackled it:

I had my mechanic dremel a port between the two heater channels at the back of the head, this enabled the use of a simple steel plate with the same bolt-pattern and 16v RWD rear water neck as a water bypass (At a fraction the cost of certain kits out there)
At the same time, the original 20v water outlet (To the right of #4 exhaust port) was blocked off, with a plate:





The choice of water pump housing doesnt really make too much difference, what I did was to take the existing 16v RWD water pump housing, cut off the 16v TB cooling pipes, and ran a hose back to and through the heater and into the head water bypass.
For thermostat bypass I used a hose clamped to the 16v pipe that sits on top off the water pump housing, and ran it back to a SQ Engineering 20v water outlet adapter:



The adapter can also serve as a thermostat housing, but my setup runs the 16v RWD water pump housing, but theoretically this adapter enables the use of other and probably cheaper housings like MR2/20v/AE92/AE82 etc etc.

For ignition I went with a blanking cover and SQ Engineering dizzy reloc kit.

I also used a Tweak`d 20v SR5 Harness for this swap (But it`s not a requirement)

For fuel supply I used a Facet Red Top Competition low-pressure pump that lifts the fuel from the tank and into a 2L catch can, from there it`s sucked by a Walbro 255LPH High Pressure pump and through a universal Subaru Impreza fuel filter+Tomei Type-S FPR.

For vacuum routing I followed this guide to the letter:

In perspective, the costs were something like this:
Walbro 255LPH: 100E (Before all those copies brought the prices up)
Facet Red Top: 100E
2L Catch Can: 50E
Tomei Type-S FPR: 85-90E
Hoses, clamps, zip ties, screws etc somewhere around 60E
Dizzy Reloc+outlet adapter+dizzy blanking cover around 350-400E
Tweak`d SR5 20v harness c.a 250-300E (Again, not a requirement)

For a quick side-note I also used clear vacuum hoses (Have had issues with OEM vacuum hoses in the past), they did cost more pennies than I liked, but this engine is rumored to go all CEL (Check Engine Light) and low rpm limit safe mode when vacuum lines go crap.
So I simply nuked the problem from orbit, it`s the only way to make sure

People more skilled at this than I am (And for the record, I suck), would probably be able to cut all of these costs to a bare minimum, but if any detail of my swap helps just 1 person out, it was worth the 10 minutes I used to type this, in retrospective I spent years figuring this stuff out

Next up is brakes and suspension..