DIY: Hopeless project.
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04-21-2013, 03:51 AM
Post: #5
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Quote:You could put a little less emphasis on the being poor bit, a few exceptions aside, most AE86 owners are no lottery winners, that's how we ended up with them in the first place. Don`t take this the wrong way, I mean no offense: I could have easily gotten a 300bhp S13 or pristine 280ZX for less than what I bought this car for, at the time, not sure how things are in other european countries but judging by your statement I think it`s obvious that the Norwegian JDM market doesnt fall under the usual norm ![]() Walk around with clothes that are only hand-me downs exclusively, live on minimum existence, no parties, no afternoon beers etc etc for 3 years, for the sake of a Corolla, thats my "emphasis" whether you like it or not ![]() By hopeless I don`t mean that the car cant ever be fixed, otherwise I would never have bothered to install this engine, by "hopeless project" I mean it`s the ambition I have for the car. Thanks a lot for your constructive feedback though and I`ll keep the "poor" stuff at a minimum ![]() Anyway: ![]() With the relay rack removed I saw that only two relays were actually in use, probably for the head-lights, for now I put female connectors on those wires and zip-tied the two remaining relays in place. @ Aram, yeah Sam`s parts seem to be of high quality ![]() Onto the stuff I promised I`d post, it`s more like a little technical segment, as I havent seen too much material on this online (Had to ask people to find out how to do it..): ![]() Here`s the alternator bracket grinded to get clear of the tensioner assy, if you dont do this, the alternator pulley wont be alligned with main pulley and water pump pulley, needless to say the consequences.. Heres the 16v waterpump: ![]() Grinded to clear the timing belt tensioner wheel, here`s a pic of a normal 16v waterpump, I took my time with this and used a Dremel grinder tool and a hand file, constant test-fitting and patience is the key. Notice how it`ll look like when not grinded (Circled area): ![]() Here`s a spot on the block you have to file/grind a little too: ![]() It`s that brownish cast iron bolt-eye bracket on the engine block, for the waterpump housing. A better pic, Sam-Q shared the link for me on the 86DC forums: ![]() It`s the bolt-eye protrusion just above #4 (Taken from another article I think) You have to grind on the underside, otherwise the waterpump housing wont fit straight on the block, and you`ll have a waterleak.. Also remember, dont use FWD seals where the pump housing meets the inlet @ #4 in that picture, the entire pump assembly will build out towards the timing-belt and tensioner wheel, and you wont ever be able to fit your 16v waterpump.. Use an O-ring that fits the inlet hole groove, and smear it with axle-grease instead, put it in place in the groove around that inlet hole, then put waterpump assembly on and bolt it in place. Now I`m stuck on two things here.. The harness main connector on the loom needs a key-turn 12v source.. ![]() I put a female cable shoe on a wire and put it on the 12v shoe on the main connector, but on the ignition lock assembly behind the key (Which I also had to replace, and got cheap from Ebay, look for CS177 from Borg Warner or Beck Arnley), I`ve forgot which one of the wires is constant power.. I know that black with white stripe is for starting but I have no idea about which of these originally gives 12v power to the main loom connector: Brown, Brown with red stripe, black with red stripe or blue with red stripe... Does a kind soul with a better memory than me have input to this? 1x AE86 84` Zenki Coupè Levin 4A-GE 20v 1x AE86 83' Zenki Coupe Levin 4A-GE 16v 1x TA60 82' Sedan 2T 8V 1x TA40 78` MK1 Zenk/Pre-Facelift Wagon 4A-GE 16v |
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