Bean Bandits Levin 'Globetrotter'

[assassin10000]

.... removing sound deadening isn't worth it unless race car. I regret removing mine.

Andrew

[Bean]

(03-04-2015 05:07 AM)assassin10000 Wrote:  .... removing sound deadening isn't worth it unless race car. I regret removing mine.

Andrew

I'm very familiar with how it is to have no deadening in the car. I mainly removing mine to get a good look at the entire chassis. Removed the portion in the back seat area and the African weather seems to have worked it good, it's so brittle it easily chips of most of the time. All I needed was a scraper not even a hammer. I will look into aftermarket deadening once other areas are tackled.

PS: thanks for the input regarding strengthening.

If all goes well the shell should be off for soda blasting in 2 weeks or so.

Spent yesterday measuring and designing on the PC, it's not quite done yet so stay tuned.

[Deuce Cam]

(03-04-2015 07:12 AM)Bean Bandit Wrote:  I mainly removing mine to get a good look at the entire chassis.

Same here. Imo it's worth it on an old car just so one knows what they're dealing with. New sound deadening can always be applied.

Both cars I stripped had oily goop embedded in the floor tar behind the driver seat. There was actually oil trapped between the metal and tar because the metal was wet after getting the tar up (no rust thankfully).

[Bean]

(03-04-2015 08:06 PM)Deuce Cam Wrote:  

(03-04-2015 07:12 AM)Bean Bandit Wrote:  I mainly removing mine to get a good look at the entire chassis.

Same here. Imo it's worth it on an old car just so one knows what they're dealing with. New sound deadening can always be applied.

Both cars I stripped had oily goop embedded in the floor tar behind the driver seat. There was actually oil trapped between the metal and tar because the metal was wet after getting the tar up (no rust thankfully).

yep keeping the insulation in the boot for last, it's soaked in all kinds of liquids

[Bean]

As removing tar mats is a pain in the ass and I'll be off for a few days visiting a friend I thought I'll share my work in progress (design will change quite a bit still) I focused on yesterday



If anyone got accurate dimensions or even a 3D model of the hub I'd be more than happy to have it.
I got my hub on the table but measuring is a bit tricky and I still got the bearings in there (they are only a few months old so won't take them out)

If anyone is wondering this will be part for my new front brake system featuring 280x20.7mm discs and 4 pot calipers.
Reason behind the non maximized discs (300x2 for my 15s is the following:

OEM hub weight incl. bearings and bolts ~2450g
OEM caliper spacer incl. dust shield ~820g
used OEM brake disc (integrated bell) ~3660g
weighed with my wife's kitchen scale so probably not very accurate (my calibrated scales only go upto 1kg)
the OEM caliper is said to be around 3kg per side (not shure if this is with pads or not)
Total of ~10kg

new calipers 1600g per side (without pads)
new discs 2990g per side
custom hub and spacer for the caliper I estimate at ~1500g (will know more once the design is finalized)
Total of 6-7kg (with pads)

PS: the final setup should be just under 300mm (~11.8 inches) in diameter so should fit under most 14" wheels. The components aren't cheap ~€1400 + whatever the custom pieces are going to cost but good things usually are.

PPS: on the rear I'll look into fitting S13 rear discs or maybe also something custom - not sure yet.

[Bean]

just picked up some lovely new stuff from the post office

unfortunately I'm very busy at work the rest of spring so not much updates - will try to get the chassis sandblasted and primed meanwhile.
I found slight ripples on my front suspension turrets but measurements are within +/- 2mm so I'll leave it be and just strengthen everything as good as I can so it won't get worse.

[oldeskewltoy]

(03-25-2015 07:36 PM)Bean Bandit Wrote:  I found slight ripples on my front suspension turrets but measurements are within +/- 2mm so I'll leave it be and just strengthen everything as good as I can so it won't get worse.

It is a 30+ year old Japanese econo-box... and as thin as rolling papers... I did tell you I have a 5/8" thick shim over one of my rear springs... didn't I???

[ditn]

Wouldnt it be easier to just buy the ap racing kit in front for the brakes?


Im also in progress of making my own rear kit with own brake discs ap racing calipers and brackets since there isnt much kits for the rear and the t3 one is way to big at 290mm for the rear.

about the sound deadening stuff,i removed mine and put it on a scale and it was like 20kg,thats quite a bit
And also you can check for rust which for me was 4 spots i spotted early then.

[Bean]

(03-27-2015 06:03 PM)ditn Wrote:  Wouldnt it be easier to just buy the ap racing kit in front for the brakes?


Im also in progress of making my own rear kit with own brake discs ap racing calipers and brackets since there isnt much kits for the rear and the t3 one is way to big at 290mm for the rear.

about the sound deadening stuff,i removed mine and put it on a scale and it was like 20kg,thats quite a bit
And also you can check for rust which for me was 4 spots i spotted early then.

Easier yes, better no. As said the weight difference is substantial and it's no big deal for me to design it. Once I finished the design a friend will print it in plastic for a testfit

[Bean]

So after the local customs kept me waiting for a month it finally arrived

First impression looks very nice - I wont have time at the moment due to work to test it but will do later next month.

And now to reveal what I'm blabbering about:


PS: cost was €80 shipped (Poland -> Israel) - if a few people want one too after my testing or before I'm sure I can arrange a deal as long as all want the same.