Smokey 20V

[Ivan141]

Why anyone would want to run an engine on 20W50 frying fat is beyond me...
I wouldnt stray too far from manufacturer specification if you want to keep the engine healthy.
In my experience it's a loosing battle once you start using thicker oil.. the oil consumption never once decreased with my tired old 16v's.

[pack]

Ivan141 the car hit the tracks in September... No smoke whatsoever....

On the track my friends saw a "bit of smoke" when revving after shifting down gears.....
I remember having 120º Oil temp


BUT it was not like this... this white smoke is too much! Something is not right..... And the piston rings don't fry on regular driving... i made 500km after the trackday and the car was just fine...
I think i have a valve stem seal out of the place.......... I dont believe in piston rings....

But i still need to open the valve cover to see what's going inside the engine....

[Uzelac]

Black smoke is oil, white smoke is water in combustin chamber.
If temp went that high on trackday your gasket is problably blown. You even maybe screwed your head.
Either way, piston rings could be just fine, but won't be for too long if you don't lift engine head and see what's wrong.

[pack]

I see smoke.....

Seems white from the rear view mirror...... but it's oil buring.... The water level is OK.. and what's consuming is oil... the oil level went from high to almost dry in 400kms...

I also have my rear bumper filled with "dry oil and dust" typical oil grease that seats on the bumper from the exahust.

[zenki]

(12-01-2015 02:42 PM)pack Wrote:  and what's consuming is oil... the oil level went from high to almost dry in 400kms...

Dayum, time for a rebuilt

[pack]

I've changed all the gaskets but the bearings and piston rings where so fucking looking good...

Well... if it aint the valve stem seals the rings are fucked.... Damn...

[isac]

I don't feel any amusement to tell you this but "I TOLD YOU!!"

You missed the opportunity to do a proper engine rebuild. Piston rings are not cheap but affordable at same time (NPR). The pictures you show me didn't look like the rings bed in at all, cross hatch look to deep or maybe is a matter of glazed walls, really don't know for sure, I'm not an expert



20w50 only be a temporary fix, that engine will blow soon or later.

Buy some rings, stem seals, OEM head gasket, resurface the head, etc., bed in with Millers Oils CRO 10w-40 Competition Running In Oil, change the oil and filter and voilà.

I did this (more than this by the way ) to my engine bought from a scrapyard and now runs on Motul 300V POWER 5W40 without any oil consumption.

Save some money and do it properly this time.

[Ivan141]

A fresh hone and new rings are a really good idea if the pistons were removed from the engine.
Once the rings are bedded in there is no going back.. the cilinder wall may look honed due to some deeper scratches, but the actual contact surface is worn smooth by the rings. If you put the old rings back in they may not seat in the exact same position they did before and they will certainly not bed in anymore.
This is just my view on the matter from what information I gathered about the bedding in process of engines, I am not an engine builder so I'm no authority on the matter.

[pack]

Ivan,

That picture is from my engine. Because it was looking so good we decided not to mess with the piston rings.... The compression was just fine....

First of all i just need to check if the problem is in the retainers..... If not, i'll open it again

No issues whatsoever...

[Ivan141]

If you did not take the pistons out (I assumed you changed the bearings) then it would indeed be wise to first check the valve seals.