Bean Bandits Levin 'Globetrotter'

[NoHachi]

You can get pretty close with tuning on the road these days. Straight road and virtual dyno should allow you to get a long way towards optimal timing. Fuel is peanuts with some kind of VE optimiser.

[Bean]

NoHachi Wrote:You can get pretty close with tuning on the road these days. Straight road and virtual dyno should allow you to get a long way towards optimal timing. Fuel is peanuts with some kind of VE optimiser.

Ignition is what I'm worried about. TunerStudio pretty much takes care of the fuel side on it's own (closed loop A/F target map, self tuning VE table etc...). I do have a Phormula Knock KS4 to keep me on the safe side of ping.
But I also know that performance that can be achieved on a dyno and a tuner who know what he's doing can be worlds apart, especially once you consider everything in incl. camtiming etc...

Anyway the setup I'll be able to tune here will be sub potential anyway as I won't run full compression due to sub par fuel quality. And I still have a lot of work to do to get there...

[Bean]

As if I hadn't had enough things going on already with my AE86, I started to tackle another area yet again. As usual pictures say more than word so first the picture


I believe this arm is from a TE7* - at least that's what I've been told.
Reason why I got is that I very much would like to refit my BV#2 extra steering kit but the only way I can do it with clearing the rail under full lock is with my winter wheels along with a 30mm spacer (14x5.5 ET-3, incl. spacer). These wheels are crap and the fact temps here barely ever drop below 20°C doesn't make much sense to go that route.

So say hello to subproject customish LCAs.
I'll cut away the lockstop as it's not needed and then extend the arm between the balljoint and the tension rod holes by about 20-30mm. The exact amount depends on quite a few things. First I will need to measure my camber accurately as I have now 25mm left on the positive side of my camber plate. Means if I want to keep camber within reasonable levels I have to count that in (this will give me the max amount) on the other hand I have the wheel under full lock (min amount). If all goes well and minimum isn't bigger than maximum this will automatically lead to my next issue which will be to extend/flare the fenders accordingly. Although nobody cares about poking out wheels around here.

[Bean]

Decided to have a look into the stock injector wiring and now lost my faith in my knowledge about electronics.

What I wanted to determine was which injectors are powered by which pin (#10, #20) and if they are connected together somewhere down the line - as I have contradicting information from the manual and wiring diagram.

So as my multimeter is broken I build a simple continuity tester out of a LED.

Long story short one lead was connected to the harness at #10 and the LED lit up all the time no matter where I put the other lead, even when I connected one pin of the injector connector with the other. Battery was completely disconnected, so were later on the EFI and Engine fuse and no key in the ignition at all.

According to the manual one side/pin should be connected to the positive side of the battery via ignition barrel switch and the other goes to the ECU where it will be grounded when ever necessary.

Anybody knows and cares to share where I went wrong?

[Ivan141]

According to the manual there are 2 wires going to the injector+ side, ignition switched 12V, and a (probably thin) wire going from the injector+ to the ECU (voltage sensing pin?).
There should also be 2 wires going from injector- to the ECU, which are shown as being interconnected in the wiring diagram. We also know that these 2 injector grounds are interconnected inside the ECU PCB (you can find that somewhere on the forum).

Basically, the stock 4age uses batch fire and your investigation is very likely pointless. Must admit that it is odd that you can light up your LED with the battery disconnected. Might be due to some residual voltage left in capacitors on that (voltage sensing?) pin I mentioned earlier. An LED does not need much juice to light up, a regular small filament bulb might be a better tool since it will only light up with some decent current running through it.

[Bean]

I'm not sure what manual you are referring to but in this one and also here I can only see one wire each (page 85 in the first and FI-41&58 in the second)

Bit more research revealed a difference in the manual for AFM and MAP, where#10 #20 are connected together for the later.

And it's not pointless at all considering the fact I'll be using the stock harness with my programmable ECU which has fully sequential capabilities.
The three ECU plugs have ~12pins free which I intend to use for the additional features (independent injectors and COP signals, wideband, knock, etc). To make a neat but reversible job every wire and plug I save is precious as I can use it for additional features.

[Ivan141]

Well Bean,

I was not referring to the wires going to the connectors on the injectors themselves, but to the injectors as a set.
From the ECU you have 3 wires (Plug Y, pins 6, 4 & 9 in the 'parrot' manual).
One goes to the injector+ side and is likely a voltage reference for the ECU to make adjustments with, the other 2 are grounds, which are connected together in the manual right beneath the injectors (page 85), and which are connected together in the oem ECU as well.

I couldn't figure out what #10 and #20 was referring to.

Since it is a full sequential setup you're researching I would suggest unplugging both the ECU as well as all injectors, and then check for continuity between the injector grounds on the ecu side and the injectors themselves...

It is still a moot point, if you want full sequential, you'll need to run new ground wires from the injectors to the ECU (at least 2 new wires, if you can find and sever any possible links between the 2 existing grounds.)
You could make it a reversible process by adding an extra connector with which you can reconnect everything together should you need to revert to an OEM ECU.

If I can find my wiring loom I'll measure it through for you, although I have a MAP harness, and your car is an AFM equipped model if I'm not mistaken.

[Bean]

Ivan141 Wrote:Since it is a full sequential setup you're researching I would suggest unplugging both the ECU as well as all injectors, and then check for continuity between the injector grounds on the ecu side and the injectors themselves...
that's what I tried to do

It is still a moot point, if you want full sequential, you'll need to run new ground wires from the injectors to the ECU (at least 2 new wires, if you can find and sever any possible links between the 2 existing grounds.)
You could make it a reversible process by adding an extra connector with which you can reconnect everything together should you need to revert to an OEM ECU.
that's the idea and would save me two pins for other usage

If I can find my wiring loom I'll measure it through for you, although I have a MAP harness, and your car is an AFM equipped model if I'm not mistaken.
according to the manual the injectors are not wired the same on MAP and AFM

#10 and #20 are the two injector ground pins on the ECU as labeled inside on the board

[Project D]

My hachi is frow Switzerland (AFM)
I will try to take a look on my harness and check with a multimeter what you need (if the rain stop...)

[Bean]

Project D Wrote:My hachi is frow Switzerland (AFM)
I will try to take a look on my harness and check with a multimeter what you need (if the rain stop...)

the four injectors are wired in pairs into the ECU. Basically I want to know if the signal from the two pins on the ECU are traveling independent through the harness or if there is some interconnection in between them.
Also measuring the resistance of the injector woul be nice in case yours are still original.

Thanks