MAPed Blue Top Swap, NOT staying running! Please Help?!

[jondee86]

Regarding the damper.... the problem I have seen is when someone
loses the toothed washer and just replaces it with some random copper
washer that is lying around the workshop. They will find a washer that is
a snug fit on the centre bolt (where the teeth touch) but it will be a bit
small on the outside diameter.

When this gets tightened up, it pushes the washer up into the groove
under the "head" of the bolt, and it becomes wedged there. Because
the banjo leaks, a second larger washer is added... the leak stops...
and then the engine either does not run, or starts and dies when the
throttle is opened. The small washer is blocking the flow of gas.

If you look at your damper and see a ring of copper at the top of the
bolt in the groove where the gas should enter the head, then you have
a washer jammed in there. If it is clear, then use a plain copper washer
that is big enough to seal on the outside edge, while providing at least
1 mm of clearance on the bolt. You will have to find a way to hold it
centred while you tighten the bolt... that is what the teeth are there for.

According to the manual, there should be a small black button (like a
rivet head) on the top of the "mushroom". When you have pressure in
the damper and the diaphragm lifts, this button should also lift up by
a millimetre or two.

If you get all this working and you have plenty of fuel flow/pressure
to the rail, and the engine still does not rev out, it might be time to
start looking at other possibilities

Cheers... jondee86