Help me AEU86, you're my only hope

[Nakilad]

(03-25-2021 09:11 AM)jondee86 Wrote:  

(03-24-2021 01:06 AM)totta Crolla Wrote:  I don't think it is necessary to sink money into a wideband system...

With all due respect, I would suggest that a WBO2 gauge and sensor
would be a good investment both for tuning and trouble shooting.

A narrow band sensor is fine for a stock engine with an OEM ECU that is set
up to work with a narrow band sensor. The "switch-like" output of the sensor
hovers around 0.5V. When it is above 0.5 the ECU reduces fuel and when it
is below 0.5 the ECU adds fuel. The sensor reacts to the change in fueling
so that the up-down-up-down cycle repeats over and over. I believe this
can happen several times a second.

The problem with the narrow band sensor is that it can not tell you HOW
rich or HOW lean the mixture is. Enter the wide band sensor that has a more
gradual change in output so that it can be scaled to read from very rich to
very lean. When used in conjunction with a compatible WBO2 controller and
gauge, you can see on the gauge if you are at 17:1 or 12:1 and how the
reading changes with load and rpm.

Most WBO2 controllers can output a simulated narrow band signal for feeding
to a factory ECU designed to work with a narrow band input. But your gauge
will be telling you the actual AFR under all operating conditions. Down the
track if you upgrade to an aftermarket ECU the wide band signal can be fed
directly to the ECU for automatic or semi-automatic tuning of the fuel map.

Incidentally, narrow band sensors are installed close to the head for
maximum heating while wide band sensors usually get installed a bit further
downstream in the collector to avoid overheating.

Cheers... jondee86

PS: And while I've got you here, I'd suggest that you forget about trying to
make the narrow band happy and start working on possible mechanical
issues. For example... is the TVIS system working correctly ? If the TVIS
plates stay closed (don't open around 4200rpm) you will have good low rpm
operation but be short of breath at high rpm.

Pulling the hose off the MAP sensor should cause a rough idle... maybe need
you to play with the throttle to keep it running, and blow a bit of black
smoke/smell gasoline in the exhaust.

I'll try to cover a few of these points. Its an early model map sensor so there's no feedback from the 02 sensor to the ecu. No modifications have been made to the motor (aside from a rebuild) and its the stock ECU.

At the moment all I get out of the NB Sensor at idle is 0.14 volts, clearly to low. The sensor is mounted in the exhaust manifold (I think you can see this in one of the videos). I've got a heated NB sensor on the way (4 wire, so I know it will have a good earth), it should be here tomorrow or Saturday so i'll plug that in and see what happens. I guess if that also doesn't show anything then WB might be the next step!

I have two tvis's, been swapped over a few times, seems to make little / no difference. I can say that they are definitely closed at idle (which is the thing I have to work out first before worrying about whats going on above 4500 rpm).

I'm not going to take any offence from any suggestions!

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(03-24-2021 10:27 AM)totta Crolla Wrote:  "The sensor I am using is a Delphi ES10226-12B1 (Lambdasensor). Is it possible that the output of this sensor does not match the input required for the Prosport Racing Premium Serie gauge I have?"

Apart from a few car manufacturer specifics narrowband sensor outputs are pretty much generic, the changes are in the wiring and the plug connections. The wiring differences are related to the heater circuit (4 wire sensor normally) By all means check with the gauge manufacturer, all you need to know is the input voltage range required. lf it is 0-1v and it almost certainly will be, you are good to go. I am still using a sensor l got from a scrapped car!

Yeah, I thought that would be the case. Its a standard prosport gauge to it ranges from 0 to 1 volts as input.