Early EDM non-cat 4A-GE 16v Bluetop Fails emissions (high co)

[Rascal21]

I found the problem and it`s not ECU or internally exploding engine of doom

ECU has a body-harness plug, on it goes the plug with wires that goes from Ignition to 2 pins, battery to 1 pin etc etc from the body-harness, which we know already.

Since this is a TA40 Carina, that body harness is omitted and new wires with small cable shoes installed instead for the essentials (Minus COR, Fuel Pump Relay, Fail Safe Relay and EFI Relay).

Theres a pin on that plug that`s called VAF and it`s supposed to tie in with Cold Start Idle-Up Computer (The smaller black box) and then eventually go to the CO Variable Resistor (The potmeter for A/F mixture).

I installed a wire with a small Wurth female connector on the VAF pin on the ECU and cable shoed at VAF wire (Black with Red stripe) on Potmeter, voilà!

In short, wire between VAF pin at ECU (Pin # and to the Black-Red wire (the lone one in the plug) at Potmeter.

   

Which actually means a lot of people with Early EDM 4AGE swaps into KE70`s etc are failing emissions because they couldnt figure this out

Ray, if your car has a swapped Early EDM 4A-GE then this is likely your problem also
But if you have an Early EDM AE86 and the car just has bad CO values (Way less or more than 1.0 Lambda) at your local emissions/inspections center, adjust the potmeter while they have the emissions counter stuck in the tailpipe, until you get the correct value (Somewhere around 1.0 Lambda and anywhere between but not outside of 1.0-2.0% CO)
If it`s a lot of CO but way more Lambda and adjusting Potmeter does a bit for your emissions but still not getting close, you probably have an exhaust leak.
Knowing exactly what car and engine+ECU you have could EASILY help identify your problem though, I can`t find your project thread anywhere so it`s a hard nut to crack under present circumstances!

Now I have another problem, adjusting TPS, because I discovered that the throttle quadrant set-screw (the one you put feeler blades in at closed throttle to adjust TPS) is missing (must have shaked itself loose) and needs replacement.

The problem is, I can`t find anywhere in the FSM how much that set-screw is supposed to go, so I`m assuming put 0.47mm (0.45mm) feeler blades between and put in the new screw until I start feeling some resistance + a little more.
Meanwhile I have a lumpy and high idle (even with CO potmeter adjusted all the way down), maybe because of the other set of injectors that I installed.

That said, I think with the TPS adjusted, the car should sail through emissions with no problem, will update on that