Let's solve my 20V conversion problems

[Jezza_hr]

Hi guys, some time ago I converted a 20V into my AE86 and have had considerable amount of problems from the beginning.

When I first installed the engine I was having 2 key issues

- The engine was burning oil above 5k rpm (when the VVT kicks in) at quite a quick rate, I was having to top up the oil every other day. It's also worth noting that the oil pressure was quite high, pushing out the dipstick at high RPM before installing a tougher O-ring

- The water pump was leaking pass the gasket, partly due to using the 16V water pump front with the 20V rear so I could continue to use the viscous fan until I installed an electric one.

After having rebuilt the engine due to the burning oil situation, I'm starting to wonder if the cooling system could be the problem. The problems I now face on the second install are:

- Oil leaking from the front crank oil seal (I will require some advice on the best way to replace this without removing the engine if someone can give any and the most ideal place to get a replacement seal) at a very slow rate. This is a brand new oil seal, but it has been sitting idle over the winter and I don't recall it leaking before then. So this could be either pressure related or the fact the seal has dried up and shrunk over the winter months from lack of use, I would probably go with my first assumption.

- I'm also still facing a slight coolant leak from the water pump (not as excessive as the first time) but this time I'm using the full 20V water pump with new gasket and O-ring and an electric fan. This makes me believe it could be down to a copious amount of pressure in the cooling system which could also be related to the oil leak (and previous burning) due to insufficient engine cooling.

Things of note
- I'm running a BLITZ radiator cap which I believe is a higher pressure than standard, I have recently come to the assumption this could be a culprit. Also, would a thermostat be a possible cause?

-I'm running a standard radiator (with intentions of upgrading to a KOYO, link me if you have an ideal place in which to purchase one from) that may go hand in hand with the rad cap with insufficient cooling.

-I'm also still running in the engine, I've only done about 450 miles since rebuild. I don't know if this may contribute but I thought it might be worth taking note of. I've also been informed that the engine is running quite rich compared to normal by the MOT garage, but then I will sort that out with a remap once the engine has been fully run in.

If anyone has any advice or can help me with my theories it would be highly appreciated. I've had just about enough of these problems now I just want the car to get into a reliable state where I don't have to watch the fluid levels like a hawk and will feel comfortable taking it out on a track without the fear of something failing on me.

Thanks in advance guys