clutch slave cylinder leak
04-09-2010, 01:06 AM
Post: #1
clutch slave cylinder leak
I changed my clutch today and noticed the slave cylinder leaking fluid. Its comin out around the rubber seal.... Does anyone know is there a way of reparing this or will the part have to be replaced???
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04-09-2010, 02:55 AM
Post: #2
clutch slave cylinder leak
Yes, you can get a repair kit.

Just take the piston out using compressed air and exchange the seals

[Image: AEU86 AE86 - clutch slave cylinder leak]
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04-09-2010, 02:59 AM
Post: #3
clutch slave cylinder leak
i think that slave cil. is the same on all corollas from that age... and even newer ones... DX, XL corollas use the same i think...

i had the same problem and i open the cil. remove the ruber and went to some guy who makes those rubbers for various type of cars...
he messure my cyl and gave my a repair kit... cost me 5 euros or a bit less
and it was the same kit that Corolla XL 1.3 use...
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06-01-2010, 08:50 AM
Post: #4
clutch slave cylinder leak
Follow these steps to replace it Smile

1- Push on the plastic built in tool in the hydraulic line with a flat screw driver, do it all around it till you feel that it has seated completely against the outer housing, this built in tool pushes the clips that hold the line in place out, allowing you to disconnect the line, to do so, just pull it out, it should slide out without too much effort if you did this correctly.

2- Once the hydraulic line has been disconnected, remove the two nuts that hold the clutch slave cylinder in place and remove it from the transmission.

3- Because it is much easier to disconnect the line directly from the slave cylinder unit rather than the adapter built in the line when bleeding the air out,and because we needed to fill the slave cylinder with fluid, we opted to remove the pin that holds the line adapter in the new clutch slave cylinder in place, when you do this be very careful not to damage the plastic housing, we used a small socket under the unit and a small punch and a hammer to drive the pin out.

4- With the line adapter off, secure the new clutch slave cylinder by the metal part in a vise, with one hand, compress the rod all the way in, as you slowly let it out, fill the slave cylinder with new fluid.

5- Install a temporary pin instead of its original locking pin for now, because in the event that you didn't let all the air out of the clutch slave cylinder when you were filling it up with new fluid, you will need an assistant to help you push on the pedal as you slide the pin out to allow air ( and fluid to scape )

6- Connect the hydraulic line to the clutch slave cylinder, and then proceed to install it in the transmission, if you don't do it this way, it will be very hard for you to do it because with the line unplugged, you will have to push on the slave cylinder very hard as it is trying to depress the clutch mechanism, ( there is no room for the fluid to go to, that's why ), so, connect the line first, then bolt it to the transmission

7- make sure that the reservoir is full before you activate the clutch, if you did everything right and there is no air trap in the system, you are done, just remember to remove the temporary pin and install its original to hold the line adapter in place.

In the event that the pedal feels spongy because there is air still trapped in the system, this is what you can do............

First, make sure that you have safety goggles protecting your eyes, and you are wearing clothes that you don't care much for because this is a very messy job......

Have an assistant depress the pedal only till he feels that it is starting to get hard, next hold the line with one hand as you pull the pin out, crack the line open slightly to let fluid and air out, don't pull the line all the way or you will lose all your fluid!!.
- You need to be very fast , it may take you a couple times to get the hang of it, every time you crack the line slightly, have your assistant push the pedal all the way to the floor once the line is partially open, that way you will get more air out.
Keep doing this till all the air is out of the system, once you are done, remove the temporary pin and install the original back on.

NOTE: The reason to depress the pedal only to the part of its travel that starts feeling hard is because that makes it easier when sliding the pin out and cracking the line partially open, if your assistant depresses the pedal all the way to the floor before you have the pin out, it will be very hard to pull the pin out then because of all the pressure in the line.

This method works, and it works very well, we only had to do this about 5 times and we had full clutch pedal, so if it worked for us, we know 100 % that it will work for you.

Good Luck Smile
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06-12-2010, 12:08 PM
Post: #5
clutch slave cylinder leak
Brings back memories of doing this on Banpeis car (if I remember correctly).

Was an easy as job, new slave costs only a few bucks.. Some good tips there hell ride, we took the easier route by just replacing it and bleeding it (so yes, the "need an assistant" option you mentioned, but good tip on filling the slave up with fluids first so you don't need to go nuts bleeding the air out.

Greetz,

Bastiaan "mux213" Olij

Moved down under, no more hachi Sad
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