My Project has started...

[nmwisima]

The car is perfect mate. Congrats!

One think though: Restore the stock orange front reflectors on the bumber and use Kouki sidelights with orange lense.

You ll be suprised how good the car will look then. :wink:

[Rasteirinho]

Some updates:

As suggested here's the car with orange indicators











Then, i found a Blacktop engine for sale in Portugal and i decided to go for it.

Engine disassembled in my already well-known garage











The pistons were covered with soot, but after cleaning they became with much better look

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Block on its new house

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The cylinders were lightly skimmed even if they weren't in bad shape

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Valves removed

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Exhaust valves with many carbon deposits

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New COP's and O2 sensor



Cylinder head cover painted



New OE parts





Engine look



Rear water passage adaptor, i will not use this OE part, it was just for measure purposes because it's a bit rotten.









Dizzy cover from SQ Engineering





Water outlet for the cylinder head



I also have the Quaife steering rack to install, but only when after i remove the 16v engine.

The ECU will be a DIYPNP

[BOOMEX]

DAIIIIiiiiinnnnn NICE

You'r car is just awsme

[Uzelac]

What ECU ?

[Rasteirinho]

This one...

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/diypn...p-384.html

[jao_ctr]

Of the best Portuguese ae86!
congratulations!

[Rasteirinho]

Update:

So the DIYPNP N76 was the ECU used:

















After the ECU was assembled, we started the swap, removing the 16V and using the necessary parts for the 20V (alternator, water pump, exhaust manifold, etc).



16V out



The 16V exhaust manifold had to be modified on the outer holes to fit the 20V cylinder head.



Nice looking engine.
One of the side supports which joins the engine to the gearbox can't be mounted completely because one of its holes does not align with the engine block hole.

On the intake side, the engine block had to be slightly grinded in order to install the 16V water pump. Also the pipe from the rear of the water pump had to be modified and the final result was this part.



20V in



Wiring begun



And in meanwhile it was time to modify the intake airbox in order to be mounted in the AE86 which mean some cut and weld.













Also the 16V cylinder head's rear water outlet was modified (side pipe was deleted) and the necessary water sensors were installed (20V ECU water temp sensor and 16V Gauge temp sensor)



Also the original DIYPNP ECU box was modified in order to install it on the original ECU location. So it had to suffer a size reduction









So, back to the car...





Dealing with the cooling system







Hose for the brake booster



Very narrow space between the engine and the firewall





Wiring work almost done



~

Engine starting

http://youtu.be/gg95jaOjha4

Some inital mapping on the dyno



Actual look of the engine



I'm still undecided if i will run with the factory airbox or will go for velocity stacks.

The engine is working with sequential injection and ignition, fan controlled by the ECU and the tacho is driven by the 4 IGF signals from the COP's

Thanks for looking

[BOOMEX]

the jubridre short stak give great result on a stock 20V with aire box.

Please put a biger filter

[Jan Pedersen]

Nice work!

Could you explain how you run the tacho from the cop signal? I modified my tacho to work with the 5V output from the ECU but I would rather do like you

[Rasteirinho]

Jan,

You must use the 4 IGF signals from the COP's (i use 4 wire COP from a Yaris P10) and join the 4 wires into 1.

Then you must use the relay coil diagram in order to create a voltage peak signal to make the tacho work.

The wire coming from the IGF signals must connect to the 1k resistor.

Diagram from MSExtra.



What ECU are you using? Original? Megasquirt?