https://www.aeu86.org/forum/ Fri, 21 Aug 2026 05:20:00 +0000 MyBB https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Speedometer-broke-and-check-engine-light Tue, 18 Aug 2026 22:34:33 +0000 https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Speedometer-broke-and-check-engine-light
I was driving to France, when I left, my speedometer didn't worked and was stuck to 105km/h (neither the trip or odometer works), after hitting the top of the dash, the needle is at 0km/h

That's a broken cable probably, but what's very weird is that the ECU is throwing a check engine light. When accelerating, it stays on, when getting off the gas, it turns off. I have no idea why.

Is it related to the speedometer?

I also have sometime small "fuel cuts" when driving, it's very rare but it can happen, it's generally once while driving on the highway and last about half a second.

Maybe bad fuel pump? I have no idea... So weird!

Car start and run fine. Still has plenty of power.]]>
I was driving to France, when I left, my speedometer didn't worked and was stuck to 105km/h (neither the trip or odometer works), after hitting the top of the dash, the needle is at 0km/h

That's a broken cable probably, but what's very weird is that the ECU is throwing a check engine light. When accelerating, it stays on, when getting off the gas, it turns off. I have no idea why.

Is it related to the speedometer?

I also have sometime small "fuel cuts" when driving, it's very rare but it can happen, it's generally once while driving on the highway and last about half a second.

Maybe bad fuel pump? I have no idea... So weird!

Car start and run fine. Still has plenty of power.]]> https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Alternative-source-for-headlight-motors Mon, 17 Aug 2026 17:54:25 +0000 https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Alternative-source-for-headlight-motors
Im interested in the necesary parts to do a Levin to Trueno conversion. I have been diving in the electronic part catalogs reviewing all the parts needed and also the electrical wirings. Of the parts that are necesary, one of the most difficult/expensive to get is the headlight retract motors. They are extremely expensive and Im looking for alternatives. In my search for alternatives I think I may have found a possible usefull motor: the headlight motor of the Miata from 1990 to 1997, parts numbers: NA01-51-SAX and NA01-51-SBX. You can find aftermarket version of them very easy.

Here are some reference images of the Miata headlight motor:



And here are some AE86 headlight motor images:



Mechanicaly they look almost exactly the same. Electricaly there is a small difference that modifies the necersary circuit in the AE86.

The circuit of the AE86 is the following and I have recreated it in falstad circuit simulator (link) to check how it works:



The motor module of the Miata is a little bit different. It already has the Retract Relay integrated in it so that part isn't needed. Another difference is that it has the diodes of possition detection in the other direction and they are referenced to the ground. These produces a little change in the circuit needed. A relay or 2 can be used with the inputs of the Retract Control Relay to make the motor work. Here are the reference circuit of the Miata motors and the 2 versions of the circuit I have designed:




I plan to use a reproduction headlight metal structure with them to maintain the costs "low" and get working parts in good/new condition. I have attached the Falstad Circuti so you can try playing with it.]]>
Im interested in the necesary parts to do a Levin to Trueno conversion. I have been diving in the electronic part catalogs reviewing all the parts needed and also the electrical wirings. Of the parts that are necesary, one of the most difficult/expensive to get is the headlight retract motors. They are extremely expensive and Im looking for alternatives. In my search for alternatives I think I may have found a possible usefull motor: the headlight motor of the Miata from 1990 to 1997, parts numbers: NA01-51-SAX and NA01-51-SBX. You can find aftermarket version of them very easy.

Here are some reference images of the Miata headlight motor:



And here are some AE86 headlight motor images:



Mechanicaly they look almost exactly the same. Electricaly there is a small difference that modifies the necersary circuit in the AE86.

The circuit of the AE86 is the following and I have recreated it in falstad circuit simulator (link) to check how it works:



The motor module of the Miata is a little bit different. It already has the Retract Relay integrated in it so that part isn't needed. Another difference is that it has the diodes of possition detection in the other direction and they are referenced to the ground. These produces a little change in the circuit needed. A relay or 2 can be used with the inputs of the Retract Control Relay to make the motor work. Here are the reference circuit of the Miata motors and the 2 versions of the circuit I have designed:




I plan to use a reproduction headlight metal structure with them to maintain the costs "low" and get working parts in good/new condition. I have attached the Falstad Circuti so you can try playing with it.]]> https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Door-mirrors-after-market-to-be-specific-help-me Sat, 08 Aug 2026 17:36:06 +0000 https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Door-mirrors-after-market-to-be-specific-help-me
However I cannot seem to get them to fit.

My 86 came with electric door mirrors and I'm wondering if the mount in the door is different with manual mirrors, is it too recessed ?

I've tried Winds Auto mirrors with no luck - unless I had really really really long bolts to sort of attach it.

I then purchased a set of EG/DC2 Honda mirrors, having read online that two of the bolts line up.

Anyway can't seem to win; other than getting stupidly long bolts and somehow mount the mirror arse ways.

Any advice - pics below are have the OEM mirror, Winds Auto Mirror and a cheapo EG/DC2 mirror.



]]>
However I cannot seem to get them to fit.

My 86 came with electric door mirrors and I'm wondering if the mount in the door is different with manual mirrors, is it too recessed ?

I've tried Winds Auto mirrors with no luck - unless I had really really really long bolts to sort of attach it.

I then purchased a set of EG/DC2 Honda mirrors, having read online that two of the bolts line up.

Anyway can't seem to win; other than getting stupidly long bolts and somehow mount the mirror arse ways.

Any advice - pics below are have the OEM mirror, Winds Auto Mirror and a cheapo EG/DC2 mirror.



]]> https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Blacktop-20V-high-idle Sat, 08 Aug 2026 08:49:30 +0000 https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Blacktop-20V-high-idle
My blacktop idles at 2000 rpm. Only there is a catch. Sometimes it will calm down to 1000. But when I rev it up it will stick again at 2000.

My first step will be cleaning the ISAV (i.e. ISCV). A sticky bi-metallic spring could cause a high idle. It pushes open the valve to the bypass air intake.

However... it does not make sense to me because once the engine is hot, that bi-metallic spring is not moving anymore right? It would be fully expanded. And if it's not moving, how can I have 2000 rpm but sometimes 1000?

I also read that there are two solenoids in there, connected to the ECU. As I understand it they make sure the rpm is stable under various loading conditions (also by controlling the valve to open the bypass air intake).

Can the ECU also "command" a 2000 rpm? That it somehow thinks the engine is still cold?]]>
My blacktop idles at 2000 rpm. Only there is a catch. Sometimes it will calm down to 1000. But when I rev it up it will stick again at 2000.

My first step will be cleaning the ISAV (i.e. ISCV). A sticky bi-metallic spring could cause a high idle. It pushes open the valve to the bypass air intake.

However... it does not make sense to me because once the engine is hot, that bi-metallic spring is not moving anymore right? It would be fully expanded. And if it's not moving, how can I have 2000 rpm but sometimes 1000?

I also read that there are two solenoids in there, connected to the ECU. As I understand it they make sure the rpm is stable under various loading conditions (also by controlling the valve to open the bypass air intake).

Can the ECU also "command" a 2000 rpm? That it somehow thinks the engine is still cold?]]> https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-idler-pulley-for-4AGE-with-power-steering-aircon Mon, 06 Jul 2026 12:55:15 +0000 https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-idler-pulley-for-4AGE-with-power-steering-aircon
Does anyone know somewhere online that has the above in stock ? Flos don't have them currently, and I'm in the process of changing belts etc.

Or does anyone know the part number ? its 110mm in diameter.

Thanks

  IMG-20260706-WA0000.jpg (Size: 193.16 KB / Downloads: 65) ]]>
Does anyone know somewhere online that has the above in stock ? Flos don't have them currently, and I'm in the process of changing belts etc.

Or does anyone know the part number ? its 110mm in diameter.

Thanks

  IMG-20260706-WA0000.jpg (Size: 193.16 KB / Downloads: 65) ]]> https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Pinout-of-some-connectors-needed-for-removing-JB2 Mon, 23 Mar 2026 09:53:42 +0000 https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Pinout-of-some-connectors-needed-for-removing-JB2
I've been researching the electric wiring diagrams to figure out the pinouts for the connectors. This is probably doable, but takes a lot of time I'm hoping that someone did this before and wrote down the pinout for the connectors


These three connectors enter the cabin from JB2/engine compartment loom. LHD drivers side to JB1.

My guess is that connector 1 (18 pin) is a feedthrough to JB3 and probably contains the signal wires for the indicators/headlights/fogs ect.
Connector 2 (6 pin) probably feeds 12v from the battery?
Connector 3 (10 pin) also enters JB1


In the LHD passenger side this two pin connector is attached to JB4.


And this 18 pin (part of the engine loom, which is also going to be replaced) is probably fed through to JB3 also (containing wipers, washer ect)

Anyone, by any chance, have this written down and want to share it? Thanks!

  JB1.jpg (Size: 263.48 KB / Downloads: 252)

  JB4_2pin.jpg (Size: 331.48 KB / Downloads: 296)

  jb4_jb3_doorvoer.jpg (Size: 209.15 KB / Downloads: 268) ]]>
I've been researching the electric wiring diagrams to figure out the pinouts for the connectors. This is probably doable, but takes a lot of time I'm hoping that someone did this before and wrote down the pinout for the connectors


These three connectors enter the cabin from JB2/engine compartment loom. LHD drivers side to JB1.

My guess is that connector 1 (18 pin) is a feedthrough to JB3 and probably contains the signal wires for the indicators/headlights/fogs ect.
Connector 2 (6 pin) probably feeds 12v from the battery?
Connector 3 (10 pin) also enters JB1


In the LHD passenger side this two pin connector is attached to JB4.


And this 18 pin (part of the engine loom, which is also going to be replaced) is probably fed through to JB3 also (containing wipers, washer ect)

Anyone, by any chance, have this written down and want to share it? Thanks!

  JB1.jpg (Size: 263.48 KB / Downloads: 252)

  JB4_2pin.jpg (Size: 331.48 KB / Downloads: 296)

  jb4_jb3_doorvoer.jpg (Size: 209.15 KB / Downloads: 268) ]]> https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Kouki-door-card-removal-help Sat, 07 Mar 2026 17:08:37 +0000 https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Kouki-door-card-removal-help
I have everything loosened - except the 3rd clip for the armrest - the square plug closest to the end of the door ? which looks like it should pop off and reveal a screw, doesn't seem to. I don't want to force it further, so does anyone have a tip on how to remove the armrest ?]]>
I have everything loosened - except the 3rd clip for the armrest - the square plug closest to the end of the door ? which looks like it should pop off and reveal a screw, doesn't seem to. I don't want to force it further, so does anyone have a tip on how to remove the armrest ?]]> https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Engine-mount-replacement-tips-tricks Thu, 19 Feb 2026 17:22:56 +0000 https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Engine-mount-replacement-tips-tricks
I have new OEM mounts to change in.

From cursory reading - I jack up the engine and undo the mounts, replace and bolt in the replacements.

Manifold side looks easy enough, however intake side seems quite cluttered. Is there any tips/tricks people have for this task ?]]>
I have new OEM mounts to change in.

From cursory reading - I jack up the engine and undo the mounts, replace and bolt in the replacements.

Manifold side looks easy enough, however intake side seems quite cluttered. Is there any tips/tricks people have for this task ?]]> https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Passenger-roof-grab-handle-how-to-remove Thu, 19 Feb 2026 11:11:07 +0000 https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Passenger-roof-grab-handle-how-to-remove
I'm being overly cautious as I don't want to snap the surround plastic c pillar trim so any advice welcome !]]>
I'm being overly cautious as I don't want to snap the surround plastic c pillar trim so any advice welcome !]]> https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Need-help-installing-replica-OEM-sideskirts Tue, 27 Jan 2026 00:18:46 +0000 https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Need-help-installing-replica-OEM-sideskirts
My Sprinter Trueno coupe came without the sport package (no spoiler and no sideskirts)

I managed to find an OEM spoiler and installed it with all the original hardware sourced directly via Amayama

The problem is, sideskirts are VERY difficult to find and their prices were too expensive for me

So I bought replicas for 600€ incl shipping from someone in Germany, I have no idea which model they are or where they come from but they are unpainted and I have no hardware (I think) perhaps screws, and I have weather stripping.



What would be the best way to install them after they are painted? Some say rivnuts, some say try to glue them, some say try this or that...

If someone have ideas, I'll take it!

Thanks for everyone helping ]]>
My Sprinter Trueno coupe came without the sport package (no spoiler and no sideskirts)

I managed to find an OEM spoiler and installed it with all the original hardware sourced directly via Amayama

The problem is, sideskirts are VERY difficult to find and their prices were too expensive for me

So I bought replicas for 600€ incl shipping from someone in Germany, I have no idea which model they are or where they come from but they are unpainted and I have no hardware (I think) perhaps screws, and I have weather stripping.



What would be the best way to install them after they are painted? Some say rivnuts, some say try to glue them, some say try this or that...

If someone have ideas, I'll take it!

Thanks for everyone helping ]]> https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Coil-charge-time Fri, 23 Jan 2026 05:27:43 +0000 https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Coil-charge-time AE86 coil needs to charge (dwell)?]]> AE86 coil needs to charge (dwell)?]]> https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Fujitsubo-Sports-Catalyser Thu, 22 Jan 2026 21:21:43 +0000 https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Fujitsubo-Sports-Catalyser Fujitsubo website:


It's basically a high-flow cat with an extra damper. That's a very promising product. I have sent them an email with some inquiries and I hope to get more information soon! ]]> Fujitsubo website:


It's basically a high-flow cat with an extra damper. That's a very promising product. I have sent them an email with some inquiries and I hope to get more information soon! ]]> https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Air-conditioning-R134A-swap Wed, 21 Jan 2026 23:49:20 +0000 https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Air-conditioning-R134A-swap
Context : I have a kouki 10/1985 Sprinter Trueno with all factory manual air conditioning system, it worked "okay" when I got the car from Japan but on very big heat waves it wasn't as cool as I hoped.

So I had the great idea to, well, swap from R12 to R134A without swapping anything. A guy hooked up a machine who tested the system, removed the old oil and freon, filled up with new oil and R134A and, it worked, REALLY, REAAALLY well. Like the coldest A/C I've ever felt in my life. Unfortunately, it only lasted from June 2025 to late October 2025, but it worked everyday with no problem.

A/C button is blinking, someone told me it was related to low pressure in the system, so, there's a leak (like who could have guessed lol) because R12 is thicker than R134A, so it won't leak through the rings but R134A does.

The results : I have now a complete stock R12 system, filled with R134A and R134A oil, but non working. Was working, compressor not seized.

I know I need to change the o-rings on the lines, and in the compressor
Not sure about the A/C expansion valve if I really need to change it or not? If I can keep myself from removing the entire dash it'll be nice

Someone in the MR2 AW11 Facebook group told me to use a RAV4 compressor instead, easier and OEM and bolts right in, but I'm not sure which one to use lol

If anyone have ideas...

]]>
Context : I have a kouki 10/1985 Sprinter Trueno with all factory manual air conditioning system, it worked "okay" when I got the car from Japan but on very big heat waves it wasn't as cool as I hoped.

So I had the great idea to, well, swap from R12 to R134A without swapping anything. A guy hooked up a machine who tested the system, removed the old oil and freon, filled up with new oil and R134A and, it worked, REALLY, REAAALLY well. Like the coldest A/C I've ever felt in my life. Unfortunately, it only lasted from June 2025 to late October 2025, but it worked everyday with no problem.

A/C button is blinking, someone told me it was related to low pressure in the system, so, there's a leak (like who could have guessed lol) because R12 is thicker than R134A, so it won't leak through the rings but R134A does.

The results : I have now a complete stock R12 system, filled with R134A and R134A oil, but non working. Was working, compressor not seized.

I know I need to change the o-rings on the lines, and in the compressor
Not sure about the A/C expansion valve if I really need to change it or not? If I can keep myself from removing the entire dash it'll be nice

Someone in the MR2 AW11 Facebook group told me to use a RAV4 compressor instead, easier and OEM and bolts right in, but I'm not sure which one to use lol

If anyone have ideas...

]]> https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-4AGE-Big-port-head-failure Wed, 21 Jan 2026 12:00:36 +0000 https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-4AGE-Big-port-head-failure
I an opinion regarding what happened to my engine.

In november i did the maiden trip after completing my restoration project.
During my way back from an event, with around 700km on the freshly rebuilt engine, thank to a friend we noticed a leak from the exhaust camshaft seal.
So i removed the valve cover and removed the E1 cam caps, just to find out that the cam journal was out of round.
That was causing the cam seal to move a bit during camshaft rotation and losing oil.
The oil pressure gauge never signaled a loss of pression, but of course since it was leaking, all the camshaft journal and cap got ruined and grinded with no oil delivered.

I have now rebuilt the engine again, the block and pistons luckily survived and i purchased another head with cams, that has been check by the machine shop (same as the before for both block and head).

I still not understanding what could have caused the issue, could have been bad luck o something i did bad?

The engine is bone stock, 4AGE 16v bigport, with AFM (and it's stock ECU), EGR system removed, no catalytic converter and no O2 sensor.
I'm running the Motul eighties oil 10w40.
Valve lash all in specs and double checked both on Intake and Exhaust.

As anyone ever seen something similar or find any critical issues in my setup?
I am at the point were i can drive it again, but i would like to do all properly

Some photos of the cam, don't mind indents in the cam, that was me trying desperately to somewhat fix the out of round with and hammer, while stranded on the roadside.




  WhatsApp Image 2026-01-21 at 12.56.20.jpeg (Size: 242.3 KB / Downloads: 267)

  WhatsApp Image 2026-01-21 at 12.56.19.jpeg (Size: 172.75 KB / Downloads: 252) ]]>
I an opinion regarding what happened to my engine.

In november i did the maiden trip after completing my restoration project.
During my way back from an event, with around 700km on the freshly rebuilt engine, thank to a friend we noticed a leak from the exhaust camshaft seal.
So i removed the valve cover and removed the E1 cam caps, just to find out that the cam journal was out of round.
That was causing the cam seal to move a bit during camshaft rotation and losing oil.
The oil pressure gauge never signaled a loss of pression, but of course since it was leaking, all the camshaft journal and cap got ruined and grinded with no oil delivered.

I have now rebuilt the engine again, the block and pistons luckily survived and i purchased another head with cams, that has been check by the machine shop (same as the before for both block and head).

I still not understanding what could have caused the issue, could have been bad luck o something i did bad?

The engine is bone stock, 4AGE 16v bigport, with AFM (and it's stock ECU), EGR system removed, no catalytic converter and no O2 sensor.
I'm running the Motul eighties oil 10w40.
Valve lash all in specs and double checked both on Intake and Exhaust.

As anyone ever seen something similar or find any critical issues in my setup?
I am at the point were i can drive it again, but i would like to do all properly

Some photos of the cam, don't mind indents in the cam, that was me trying desperately to somewhat fix the out of round with and hammer, while stranded on the roadside.




  WhatsApp Image 2026-01-21 at 12.56.20.jpeg (Size: 242.3 KB / Downloads: 267)

  WhatsApp Image 2026-01-21 at 12.56.19.jpeg (Size: 172.75 KB / Downloads: 252) ]]> https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Spare-wheel-spare-wheel-carrier Mon, 12 Jan 2026 15:44:05 +0000 https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Spare-wheel-spare-wheel-carrier
2 things - My 86 came no spare wheel, and no spare wheel carrier (Toyota part 5190012020 ).

Does anyone know what is the maximum size wheel you can fit in the spare wheel well ? i.e. 14" alloy with tyre ? and also ideally does anyone know of a suitable replacement for the spare wheel carrier bolt/nut setup ?

thanks]]>
2 things - My 86 came no spare wheel, and no spare wheel carrier (Toyota part 5190012020 ).

Does anyone know what is the maximum size wheel you can fit in the spare wheel well ? i.e. 14" alloy with tyre ? and also ideally does anyone know of a suitable replacement for the spare wheel carrier bolt/nut setup ?

thanks]]> https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Main-battery-live Thu, 01 Jan 2026 12:23:50 +0000 https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Main-battery-live Does anyone know how the original wiring goes and is it possible to buy the main battery to starter lead and install it or should it be attached to the main wiring loom somehow?]]> Does anyone know how the original wiring goes and is it possible to buy the main battery to starter lead and install it or should it be attached to the main wiring loom somehow?]]> https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Differential-specs Tue, 02 Dec 2025 15:11:44 +0000 https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Differential-specs Looking for 6.7inch diff specs. most important is pinion preload i need but getting the backlash and diff carrier preload would be nice to know also.]]> Looking for 6.7inch diff specs. most important is pinion preload i need but getting the backlash and diff carrier preload would be nice to know also.]]> https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Bigger-brake-master-cylinder-options Fri, 21 Nov 2025 17:15:13 +0000 https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Bigger-brake-master-cylinder-options
Lots of options are available abroad which look like they used some kind of master cylinder off another vehicle. But of course they don't share part numbers...I don't want to pay a lot of shipping for something that is probably also in stock at the local parts store. The forums mention many versions from cars that are not really common in Europe.

Some data;


My current brake master cylinder. This is a 3/4" (19mm) , even smaller than original (13/16" or 20,63mm)

My front calipers are AP Monte Carlo with a piston surface of 46,6cm2 (original is 40,8cm2) so 12% bigger than stock. Rears are original.

My logic is that I need a 15/16" (23.8mm, 15% bigger than stock) or 7/8" (22.23mm, 8% bigger than stock) to get a pedal travel that suits the car.

Any advice? Preferably with partnumbers to get a new one of a decent brand I don't mind redoing the brake lines, but it should fit the current brakebooster (2-hole, horizontal)

Thanks!

  20251121_135332_copy_1024x768.jpg (Size: 232.08 KB / Downloads: 381) ]]>
Lots of options are available abroad which look like they used some kind of master cylinder off another vehicle. But of course they don't share part numbers...I don't want to pay a lot of shipping for something that is probably also in stock at the local parts store. The forums mention many versions from cars that are not really common in Europe.

Some data;


My current brake master cylinder. This is a 3/4" (19mm) , even smaller than original (13/16" or 20,63mm)

My front calipers are AP Monte Carlo with a piston surface of 46,6cm2 (original is 40,8cm2) so 12% bigger than stock. Rears are original.

My logic is that I need a 15/16" (23.8mm, 15% bigger than stock) or 7/8" (22.23mm, 8% bigger than stock) to get a pedal travel that suits the car.

Any advice? Preferably with partnumbers to get a new one of a decent brand I don't mind redoing the brake lines, but it should fit the current brakebooster (2-hole, horizontal)

Thanks!

  20251121_135332_copy_1024x768.jpg (Size: 232.08 KB / Downloads: 381) ]]> https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Bushes--16843 Mon, 17 Nov 2025 00:25:54 +0000 https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Bushes--16843 https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Parcel-Shelf-Hangers Mon, 03 Nov 2025 15:33:39 +0000 https://www.aeu86.org/forum/Thread-Parcel-Shelf-Hangers
Anyone know if they can still be got?]]>
Anyone know if they can still be got?]]>