Which is the best setup for grip??

Wataru Joined: 25 Jun 2007 Posts: 61 Location: Costa Rica

WHICH IS THE BEST SETUP FOR GRIP??

Any Ideas not toooo way expensive, and the expensive ones too Cheerleader

Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 3:19 pm Post subject:

Take out all the unecesssary wheight. Is the cheapest.

Then:
Good seat (Recaro, Bride...)
Steering wheel
Proper suspension (GReddy, Toda, Tein)
Good swaybars (Cusco, TRD, Whiteline)
Good brakes (discs and pads or full kit)
Semi or full slick tyres (size will depend on application, track)
Additional suspension stuff, tension rods, lateral bar, strut bars.....

Then you can also get to the power side.
......
And also loose more wheight.
......

There are endless possibilities basically depending on what you want to spend and where you want to drive. If you have some restrictions of race class or keeping it road legal in your country.

Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 3:55 pm Post subject:

hmmz another good tip is an helix differential. Its very good for making your wheel power go to the road instead of slide. Its also used in slalom.

Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 3:55 pm Post subject:

Tires, suspension, driver !

Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 4:00 pm Post subject:

Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 4:36 pm Post subject:

Wataru Joined: 25 Jun 2007 Posts: 61 Location: Costa Rica

Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 11:09 pm Post subject:

Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 11:18 pm Post subject:

Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 9:53 am Post subject:

Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 9:59 am Post subject:

why avoid obx? i was thinking of getting tht header of theirs.. is it no good?

Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 10:28 am Post subject:

They make acceptable headers (well, you need at least redrilling but ...).
I have direct impressions from Civic OBX LSD here, car tends to turn right-side when acceleration. Ghost in the LSD maybe Puh

Wataru Joined: 07 Jul 2005 Posts: 71 Location: USA

Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 12:00 pm Post subject:

On NickBW's note,

Also don't do everything at once. Do one thing at a time, try and see what the difference is and evaluate if you're headed into the direction you want to go. Something that another person recommends because its suits his desires may be totally the wrong thing for you even if there is nothing wrong with his advise itself.

There is nothing worse then spending a couple of thousand euros tuning your car just to find out you got something you don't like..

Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 1:53 pm Post subject:

As you have seen so far there are a lot of good points mentioned so far and in the end you still have to decide for your self what you want. Everybody is different in taste, drivestyle and...
So just go on track and see which areas you want to improve on the car.
Tracktime will show the weak spots probably quite fast.

Just go on track whenever you can, because not only the car needs work, also your drivestyle.

This is the order I would go today, also with money as a factor:

-Take everything out what you do not really need
-Fit a decent seat, steering wheel if you want to
-When your tyres are worn out, buy some good ones
(Whenever something has to be changed, try to upgrade. Aftermarket parts are most the time not really more expensive than oem ones)
-Get lowering springs
-Get bushes
-Get stabilizers
-Do something about the brakes (pads, discs, lines or full kit)
-Strutbars front and rear
-Get dampers or complete suspension
-Get a lateral rod to get rear axle back in line
-Get a better LSD

After all this you can go all out on suspension parts like tension rods, links.... and a cage.
You can also start to add lightweight bodyparts carbon or FRP. Lexan glass will also help to reduce weight.

All this is just for the handling department.

Concerning the engine and drivetrain I divide it by cost.

No to very little budget and some time:
-Take off the engine cooling fan and mount an electric one from the junkyard. Various will fit, just check the size.
-Take off AC if there

Low budget:
-Open Air filter kit or selfmade
-Quikshift

Mid budget:
-Header
-Final gear
-Fuel pressure regulator
-Adjustable cam gears
-Clutch and flywheel (you can also take some wheight off the original flywheel)

High budget:
-Cams
-Headwork
-Pistons
-Other transmission gearing
-Change engine
-Programmable ECU

Endless budget:
-Get a Toda Kit
-Send your engine or car to Techno Pro Spirit or some other good Tuner in Japan Drool

Also check on the forum for used parts. You will find some bargains once in a while.
On this car you can do a lot of stuff yourself if you can build stuf from IKEA. Wink

This of course will depend on your knowledge, but you can always ask.

So much about my ideas.
This is no general route, just what I think about it. And as mentioned before everybody will do this differently.
Most important will be:
HAVE FUN and DRIVE SAVE Thumbsup

Cheers

Wataru Joined: 25 Jun 2007 Posts: 61 Location: Costa Rica

THANKS TO ALL!!!!!

WELL I HAVE SOME ISSUES SINCE MY CAR IS NOT COMP STOCK,

THAT’S WHY I NEED ADVICE IN SUSPENSION AND SECURITY

http://www.aeu86.org/viewtopic/hi-everyone_-ser...t/5308/highlight= Thumbsup

Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 8:38 pm Post subject:

Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2007 4:43 am Post subject:

Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2007 11:19 am Post subject:

@Oldskewltoy:
Well..those factors are just from my own experience.
50% driver is just way to little. I ran up to 20 second faster laptimes in our 100hp, crap suspensioned heavy ass volo compared to some people in their fully tuned impreza STi's. The difference between a poor and very good driver (not me) is even bigger..probably up to a minute on a 2 minute course. So driver influence is HUGE, not a mere 50%

Tip I heard on the miata forums: If the car is not performing the way it should: first tighten the nut behind the wheel

If you then look at the rest of the performance envelope: Tires will help you corner everywhere, help your braking and help you put down power. (brake pads -at least for road racing - belong right alongside them...not for autoX though). On slicks the volvo keeps up with much better handling cars. After the driver, its the single largest influence.

A decent suspension setup only helps you in the max.G corners....a lot smaller difference then the tires make. This is assuming the presence of a normal stock suspension setup to begin with. After the car is on slicks, it doesn't matter much what you add..a bit of power, better suspension..anything will lower your laptimes, but nothing close to the drop you saw when mounting a racing driver (lol) or slicks. They'll add funfactor though.

Obviously a working car helps...so if your starting point is a non working car (25 year old shocks, leaking engine etc), obviously that needs sorting first.

Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2007 1:28 pm Post subject:

He didn't ask about the driver - thats another issue... He just wanted to know how to make the car better so we have to assume that his driving skills are ok imo... I'm not saying that your wrong, though Wink

If your shocks aren't blown I would start off with some new bushes OEM, TRD, prothane or whatever. Slap on some good tires and see what you need to upgrade next Thumbsup

Wataru Joined: 25 Jun 2007 Posts: 61 Location: Costa Rica

Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2007 7:38 pm Post subject:

I would get rid of the 4-to-5 lug conversion spacers.. they are a potential hazard when going racing. Furthermore..there's the performance gain of lowered unsprung weight (wont be much).

As far as point 4 is concerned, the easiest setup is the one closest to stock: use separate springs and shocks. Nice rear lowering springs can be bought from PASS racing (swift B-tune springs), or TRD. When you find some money for decent shocks, get some shortstrokes to go along with them. Do keep in mind that huge springrates and sloppy shocks are not going to combine too well.

Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2007 8:42 pm Post subject:

I think you should tune your car acordingly to your skill and purpuse. If you're saying that you're a very good race car driver and you want the car only to do well on track, than you will need a completely different aproach than say if you want a street car that will be fast on street/mountain roads, maybe occasional track use, but still maintain good streetability. And if you are a beginner like me, i would suggest that you do not overtune your car, just do the basic mods to make the car more comfortable to push hard (renew the poor old hachiroku, get a good seat&steering wheel, better brake pads, make the engine good and healthy and good wheel alignment). I believe that would enable a beginner to progress much faster than if he was to go all out with superstiff springs/coilovers/othermods.. not even knowing what each mod does. i believe in modding your car when you know exactly why you need it.. So i would get the basics and go racing and than go from there. But if you're a pro than this is on a whole another level - but i think the same story of succesfull racing.

Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2007 10:41 pm Post subject:

I think you should update parts one at the time, so you can feel if it gets better or worse. If you change everything all together, it might be impossible to tell what parts actually did help, or made it worse.

Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2007 11:05 pm Post subject:

I've got no clue about racing a car but I believe in getting new tires before doing anything else ever since I got new front tires on my car, partly on the advice of NoHachi. It handled much beter and thats something noticed during every day use on a slow fwd car.

I was swapping old dried out but good profile Michelin's to new Michelin's and it made such a difference. I can only imagine the difference you could notice after swapping from older cheap tires to new proper (high performance?) tires