suspension setup
06-14-2011, 04:37 PM
Post: #1
suspension setup
this the first time I need to think about a suspension setup ever, please excuse all the questions...

I´ve read a lot about suspension parameters in general, but need opinions from people with expirience, to find a basic drift setup for my AE86.

It´s a drift/track only car, with TRD coilovers ,8kg/mm springs, adjustable top mounts, NRCA´s, DW tension rods, T3 tie rods, servo arms, polybushings and I usually run normal road tyres.
Also changed the steering rack so everything is out of alignment.

The rear is pretty stock except for 8way TRD blue shocks and 6kg springs, not like that there´s much more to adjust... Smile

I´ve had understeer issues, but I blame the lack of seat time, sh** tires and the new TRD LSD for that, still want to buy the Whiteline swaybars at some stage...

That´s what figured out might suit me, reading a few posts on here.

camber: -4° (pretty sure it´s enough?)
castor: +4° (how bad will straight line driving become if I take more?)
toe in: 0.8° (I know what it does but no idea what to choose here Sad)

Please help me...

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1979 Toyota Corolla KE35
1983 Toyota Corolla AE86
1985 Toyota Corolla AE86
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06-14-2011, 08:46 PM
Post: #2
suspension setup
I'll start the ball rolling.
4 degrees of camber is a lot, I would be increasing it from about 1 degree negative in increments to see how it handles.
Mine is a rally car and being so I cannot allow understeer to be an issue and even with proper crap remould forest tyres it still turns in nicely on tarmac with little or no understeer.
I have.
190lb front springs -15mm ride height
TRD 5 way adjustable dampers set on 3
Stock anti roll bar
Prothane bushes.
Stock top mounts
Measured at 1.5 degrees neg. camber
3 degrees positive caster
2mm toe in

Bilstein MK2 Escort rear dampers
160lb springs -20mm ride height
Stock rear anti roll bar
Prothane bushes

Drifting though ?
That's probably a different World altogether !

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06-15-2011, 08:16 AM
Post: #3
suspension setup
Learning drift/grip setup:

2.5 camber
3.2-2.5 caster (depending on wheel/tire clearance)
0 toe

4 caster is way high for a corolla.

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06-15-2011, 08:56 AM
Post: #4
suspension setup
+1 on starting with low camber... just felt better that way even though high camber might be faster/better eventually.
Liked the feel of high caster for drifting though. Let go of the wheel and the car seems to steer itself. Easy lol.

A wheel to steer the front of the car
A pedal to steer the rear
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06-15-2011, 03:23 PM
Post: #5
suspension setup
Thanks for all your input! Hurray!

I´m running 186/60 R14 and with the extra lock I need as much as possible rear clearance hence the high castor and I´ve also heard of the reset force which makes steering easier.

What about toe? I´ve read that RWD cars should run toe in?
Why should I choose static 0° toe? How is my car supposed to drive a straight line without any toe and with the higher caster settings?

I´ve also came across different ways of measuring toe, degree (easy to understand) and in mm, not so easy to understand. Where is the reference point?

Sorry for all the questions... Dumb question

1979 Toyota Corolla KE35
1983 Toyota Corolla AE86
1985 Toyota Corolla AE86
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06-16-2011, 12:17 AM
Post: #6
suspension setup
You want parallel toe because it will help turn in. Yes, you'll lose some straightline stability but in order to drift/get oversteer, you kind of want it a bit loose.

Toe goes from toe in through to toe out. If you want an idea of what that is, point your toes outwards. That's toe out. Then point your toes inwards, that's toe in.

Parallel is having your toes parallel. Personally I prefer measuring toe in mm's. I used to do geo setups on track cars for a bit inbetween stuff, so I used a known datum point to get the measurements as well using a gauge of course.

Sorry if it feels like I'm teaching you to suck eggs, not intended to patronise etc.

1985 Sprinter Trueno GT Apex
2013 GT86 Miltek Exhaust, Injen Induction.
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06-16-2011, 01:54 AM
Post: #7
suspension setup
Depending on the bushes/suspension stiffness of your car, toe-in on driving/braking can become 0 toe or toe-out.

Starting at 0 toe will definately give you a slight bit toe-out, which makes for easier turn-in. (as mentioned above ^)

Toe-in will make the car want to track straight/not turn in.

Degree's, MM, or inches doesn't matter. Just pick one consistent measurement and stick with it, try different settings and see what works for you. Although knowing what works/doesn't is also a product of experience/skill, so you may need to hold off and learn some first before trying different settings.

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