DIV 1 rally/track 4AGE(objective +- 130 whp)

[Bean]

totta Crolla Wrote:Please be careful when shaving heads.
Someone must have a measurable dimension for a stock head apart from the chamber volume.
Any ideas ?

oldeskewltoy should be able to give a stock dimension off my virgin head (smallport though)

[Project D]

PatrickAE86 Wrote:if you shave about 1mm the CR goes to 11:1 with oem gasket (1.2mm).

With stock chamber (around 36cc) if you shave 0.8mm you loose 3cc (so -> ~33cc)
If stock you have 10:1,
after 0.8mm shaving -> ~10.8:1,
+ TRD 0.8mm -> ~11.1:1

Like I said, It will depend how far he will deshroud the combustion chamber.

[ditn]

Well the most important thing for now is to know what is inside the engine.
the 40/18 or 42/20.
Any easy way to know this?

Because the engine has 244000 km if it is still the original one.

[Project D]

My friend have 310000km on his AE86 and it's the original engine.
I don't see any problem with that :lol:

The easy way... check the crankshaft.
Maybe, if you have an endoscope, you can check via the oil drain plug but I'm absolutly not sure about that.

[oldeskewltoy]

Above is an approximate chamber volume, as based on how close the "squish area" comes to the intake valve edge. From my experience, if beginning with a head that has never been cut, you will likely have to cut the head about 1.2mm-1.5mm to get the chamber volume down to 33.25cc(+ or -)

[Jan Pedersen]

Ofcourse its important to know if its 40 or 42 mm! 40 mm would be the best choice if you want a revvy engine

7 rib + 40 mm + worked small port = WIN

And you dont need to use expensive aftermarket parts for a build like this. My friend rallied an engine (as above) with 180 hp for years without any trouble - just need to be build right.

[Uzelac]

Project D Wrote:My friend have 310000km on his AE86 and it's the original engine.
I don't see any problem with that :lol:

Mine car had 400 000+ km when i bought it, and was running strong... at least when AFM was working OK

[Eircamae86]

Would the average guy at scrutiny know the difference between a 4a & a 7a?
Build a stock looking 7a

[ditn]

I will try to check this tonight.
So starting to tune with an 244000 km is no problem?

The problem im facing right now is the following
if i have the the 40/18 combination then i cant use the parts i want because those are with 20mm pins?
2)the shaving of the head im not to keen on,but i have no choice i guess?

Jan Pedersen Wrote:Ofcourse its important to know if its 40 or 42 mm! 40 mm would be the best choice if you want a revvy engine

7 rib + 40 mm + worked small port = WIN

And you dont need to use expensive aftermarket parts for a build like this. My friend rallied an engine (as above) with 180 hp for years without any trouble - just need to be build right.

sounds interesting,could you give more info on this if you want?

@Eircamae86
yes they would,every person knows 4AGE and 7A apart
+i want to stay 4A

[Slipangle]

Probably but it really depends if they normally do it for every car.
However even if they don't know the difference, a competitor might protest and you'd have to open the engine and then they'll find out.

Eircamae86 Wrote:Would the average guy at scrutiny know the difference between a 4a & a 7a?
Build a stock looking 7a