Adam's volvo 242 nonsense
10-16-2018, 08:40 AM
Post: #11
Adam's volvo 242 nonsense
At least the swedes used decent steel.. Easier to work on than most jap-tin from the same period.
You can also see how the car comes apart like lego for ease of work. I love those bricks.
The engines are also very reliable..

I think the rust doesn't look too bad.. just get the ugly bits sandblasted and save yourself the hassle
of cleaning it if you can. I'm fairly certain there's enough healthy steel left in most places.

'84 Corolla AE86 GT coupe......daily driver
'88 Volvo 360 GLT..................trackday beater
'81 poor guy with a money-pit

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10-17-2018, 06:35 PM
Post: #12
Adam's volvo 242 nonsense
Hey Ivan!

Yeah, the steel is great! And all the bolts are made properly too as i have never broken any yet haha.

The rust treatment will be considered when i have a chance to see the underside of the car.

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12-29-2018, 11:34 AM (This post was last modified: 12-29-2018 11:37 AM by Rascal21.)
Post: #13
Adam's volvo 242 nonsense
(10-14-2018 12:57 PM)adomz Wrote:  [Image: AEU86 AE86 - Adam's volvo 242 nonsense]

Destiny works in mysterious ways, this gave me an idea for TA40 leaf-spring rear end>4-link rear end conversion.
Thx Smile

Volvo's are awesome, been following a certain Canadian Volvo enthusiast on Youtube for a few years now and have seen what he can do with non-turbo+auto+open diff Volvo's when he's pretty much stoned.
For reference:
I have been drifting a friends turbo 940 wagon (open diff) a little.
The minimal effort needed in getting and keeping that thing sideways on ice/snow is staggering.

With that as a reference, if the only thing you ever do to this car is rust welding and some coilovers with Bilstein inserts and 16v+turbo conversion you have an insane car already, much less with a LS400 rear subframe assembly! Smile

Honestly that rust isn't hard to stop, and your Volvo is a battle master tank.
I have an AE86 in my shed that's FAR worse and it can still easily be saved.
All that structural rust you're seeing on the rear axle brackets on the body is mostly surface rust on some seriously thick steel construction, it's pretty much harmless surface rust easily taken care of by a wire-wheel on an angle grinder then some "rust milk" splashed on and spread out by hand for quick measure before you paint it, bathe it in some Wurth zinc spray, then some black Corroprotection spray paint, then spray 10-15 boxes of that rough surface protection (the plastic kind of stuff that wrinkles up when it dries) that they usually just change the brand and name on for every cheap autostore in every country (in Scandinavia its Biltema, in the U.S its Harbor Freight and so forth) and it should be good to go.

I've seen Volvo's slam into street lights fully sideways at 60-70kph and still be structurally sound (in comparison, most BMW's get bent all out of shape when lightly clipping into said street light or rear wheels hitting curbs sideways in roundabouts at far less than half that speed), so don't be too bothered by those rocker panels, they're just formal aesthetics for a Volvo.

Just get some 1mm thick plates breaked up in a 20-30 degree angle so you have something to work with, just use the edge right under the door as reference and keep cutting all the way, use some magnets to hold the b*tch in place and spot weld every 3-4cm.
If you ask me even that is too much, I can pretty much count the amount of factory spot-welds on older cars by mind, and they still need to be 50% gone to actually be structurally unsafe.

Seen cars with rocker and wheel arch repairs mostly held together by Fusor body-glue and the metal broke AROUND the glued areas!

Don't bother making the profile where rocker's meet perfectly round as from factory.
Smooth out the edges before rocker meets front and rear wheel arches with some bodyfiller = good enough for that Swedish battle machine Smile

For the LS400 sub-assembly just modify it until it fits the volvo floor with just some holes drilled through, that's what they did at the factory anyway, it just looks fancier.
Some plates welded in up top on the floors inside the car should make sure it doesnt budge even with 700hp.

Just use what you got and make it count, if you start nitpicking on this car you'll never drive it, if you smash it up just bring the 16v and LS400 stuff over to a 940 or something Smile

1x AE86 84` Zenki Coupè Levin 4A-GE 20v
1x TA40 78` MK1 Pre-Facelift Wagon 4A-GE 16v
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01-05-2019, 04:00 AM
Post: #14
Adam's volvo 242 nonsense
Hey dude! Never realised to see such a writeup on the 242 haha Big Grin Cheers for the info and ideas!

I do know Drifts N Lifts fora while and we do chat around from time to time whenever the time comes, so it's cool to see someone appreciate what he does.

Whenever the time comes (very soon), the 242 will be disassembled to bare shell and investigated to see the work that needs to be done and then i will do all necessary stuff to make itall as new as i can asi am planning to keep this car for as long as i can. I can't just throw itall together and hope itlasts and get anotherone as it's almos unobtanium where i am...

So Yeah, shit's gonna get done whenever it happens, and you shall see it all here Big Grin

Cheers, Adam
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