4A-GE head work

[ZaX]

4A-GE Head on after 170 000km after we took the engine apart


After






Job was done by specialized car mechanic shop.

What we did was that i gave him my old head, so he could recondition it and when the head was finisihed, the head was swaped in a day with his old head.
Now i have his old head, so i was wondering is it posibile that i clean and prepare this head as a reserve for future.

Any tips on doing port'n'polish, 3 angle valve job, parts necesery for doing it?

Tnx in advance

[NoHachi]

Hi,

A port and polish is a very knowledge intensive operation. I suggest you don't attempt it yourself. Only let a machine shop perform this and only let them do it if they have tons of experience with motorsport engine preparation. A bad port and polish can cause more harm then good.

To be honest, the gains you'll see with just the headwork are minimal. The std ports really flow enough for the stock cams. Make them any bigger and you'll lose a lot of low RPM torque and gain not so much high rpm horsepower. On a bluetop engine the gains are even smaller as the ports are massively oversized for the engine.

Of course years of wear and tear do take their toll on the engine, so there are still some things you can do with a dremel and a little patience: Clean the entire head of carbon deposits; these form hotspots in the combustion space and cause knock. Take a look at the ports, remove any casting ridges etc. Finish the entire port with some sanding paper until it has a satin gloss. DON'T polish the ports! The extra turbulence from the satin finish prevents the builup of a boundary layer against the surface of the port. This helps with fuel atomization, flow and reduces the amount of wallwetting you'll get.
The next thing you want to do is port match the intake and exhaust. Take a new gasket and a dremel, start grinding away untill the intake and intakeport exactly match the gasket. All the transitions between head and manifold should be smooth and ridge-free.

Clean out your manifolds! Carbon can build up enormously in the exhaust header. Its the cause of 50% of the effect people notice when changing over to a new clean tubular header. The original toyota design is outstanding.

That should keep you busy for a while :wink:

[ZaX]

4A-GE engine rebuild by RSChita -> http://www.rschita.gr.jp/4ag/4agohpage.html
traslation by babelfish + ZaX
1. Part


Disassembling the overhaul based engine, the part which you remove Using the special detergent and the chemical, you washed For rust prevention, after the washing the air blowing, it attaches oil directly In order for the dust not to arrive, after the washing you insert in the vinyl sack

2. before the attaching Block


Cylinder block After the washing it tried painting in the blue Inside blocking it meaning that the rust occurs directly note is necessary The air blowing, it attaches oil

3. Brand-new metal & ring


Brand-new metal and piston ring Also the bearing you call the metal This time the genuine metal was used You hear well, the "parent and child metal" is the crank metal and the connecting rod metal Under the right of photograph thrust metal

4. Brand-new exchange part


Brand-new gaskets and tensioner - with oil pump

5. Inside blocking


Inside cylinder block Being to wash, very it is clean

6. Crank attachment


The crank is attached There is a place where the counterweight is thin This is feature of the AE86 crank You call the 4AG crank from AE92 commonly it is modified to the size where the counterweight is equal, it is "the full counter crank" っ て person The full counter crank is made profitable in high revolution

7. Block & piston


The piston was installed Correcting the block surface with the oil stone, as for the cylinder the horning/honing being completed When the surface has been warped, the balancing plane research becomes necessary

8. Oil strainer


The baffle plate and the oil strainer are installed The liquid gasket which this time is used (the liquid gasket) the NISSAN genuine products Color is different at each manufacturer, but there is no especially problem However for around the water and one for relationship of oil and the like being to be a type classified by use, when it is one for oil, with problem in case of the る there is here

9. Oil pan


The oil pan is installed This time the reuse item it has done After the washing only the outer part paints

10 Head


Head after the washing Until the sludge to be difficult to fall becomes very clean, many times repeated washing Time is required well enough

11. IN port


It is inside the intake port It removes Bali with リューター and step being attached correction the port is ground lightly

12. EX port


It is inside the exhaust port Step being attached correction and the port it is ground with リューター

13 Head combustion chamber side


It is head combustion chamber side As for surface correction being completed

14. Combustion chamber


It is rise of the combustion chamber Other than correction of the step being attached the plate っ it is processed lightly

15. Combustion chamber & valve


The valve is set Per face correction correction being completed

16 Valve attachment


The retainer - placing in valve spring, you set with cotter pin Valve spring it meaning that the sludge cannot fall has become the brown く The retainer - it is reuse, but the brand-new way it is clean

17. Attachment completion


Valve spring and retainer - completion of set The lifter after this - putting, you set the cam

18 Head & block


The skid base and the head which first have been completed are combined This time cam installation was designated as postponement

19. Cam attachment


It is the cam of of genuine normal the cam is installed

20. Front attachment


The water pump is installed This time it reused You probably will inspect securely whether there is no abnormal play of the axis and an astringency of revolution, If budget there is a room, the new item will be used With trouble the る and exchange is difficult afterwards when and it is worst, with the overheat the っ ちゃ it is in engine blow

21 Cam pulley installation


The rear license plate and the cam pulley are installed The engine it stopped seeming considerably

22. Timing belt


The timing belt is installed Next being to be, it will designate the belt as the new item

23. Timing cover

The front cover is installed In the race/lace car considering operating efficiency, it has not been accustomed, but with the town riding the foreign material entering, being to be connected to belt damage, it does to install and the one which is solved is good, probably will be

24. Tappet adjustment


Thickness gauge is put and tappet clearance adjustment is done This time you adjusted with cold IN 0.15mm EX0.20mm a little more narrowly than standard The bottom of the photograph if the Toyota genuine SST it is, to be enormous is convenient, but the cam which is well enough expensive is not removed one by one and exchange of the shim can do also the て however as for the inner shim failure

25. Head cover


The cam cover washing, peels also the paint of the origin and is done again to paint with the silver - Story of cam cover reuse - sometimes there are some where the inside with the sludge becomes モリモリ, but as for dropping the sludge time is required rather and being to be serious, perhaps the person who searches another cover safety

26. Intake manifold installation


The intake manifold is installed Also the intake manifold washes cleanly with the special detergent The crank pulley - the blast which is reuse processing, it painted

27. メクラ


The oil filter of course installation the new item They are the medieval times when the oil pressure sensor is good In order for the rubbish not to enter, the yellow メクラ plug is done in the section

28. Completion


Completion! Job years 1999 November

29. Strengthening cylinder head bolt


Completion! The strengthening cylinder head bolt which job years 1999 November this time is used (the photograph left) Don't you think? the right side is different genuine products thickness With this in the midst of sale As for genuine volt/bolt to extend installing the metal gasket easily, when you use high revolution with such as circuit, the phenomenon which the gasket comes out with the extension of volt/bolt happens well enough When the gasket comes out, spitting happens to ラジエター With the polo polo and the air bubble increase early condition Coming out completely, the stripe uninformed ドバッ and the ラジエター liquid start blowing with accelerator on ラジエターキャップ is "when being hot, opens also the giving ぐ れ"

30. Metal head gasket


The metal gasket 0.8mm of TRD which this time is used thick Genuine being approximately 1.2 to be mm thick, is the meaning that the partial pressure reduction which has become thin becomes high, Unless, the point of caution when using corrects and solves checking the distortion of the head and the block respective aspect, when there is the distortion, the gasket coming out becomes easy to occur

[Ivan141]

haha, dont you just love babelfish translations :lol:
It seems like a reasonably standard & good overhaul of an engine.
I dont see anything about new pistons though, so they are probably just reused in the honed bores.
I wonder why they always paint the engineblock with special engine paint and always leave the head aluminium. I know that the alloy head does not need paint for rust prevention, but it would be fun to see a painted cilinder head for once.
The porting does not look very appealing to me, though it rarely does. He didnt polish anything, which is at least a good thing.
I want to do this to my old engine, but I cant seem to get the cogwheel of of the crank (the one that drives the timing belt). Does anyone have any suggestions for that?

Once I get that off I can take off the oil pump and remove the crankshaft.
Then have the block cleaned, bored out to first oversize and have the deck straightened. Then a coat of paint and petroleum jelly and it's back on the shelf to wait for funds for wiseco low-com pistons.

[NoHachi]

The head is not painted because it hinders heat dissipation. The head being alloy and the block steel would cause problems when the two heat up (different coefficients of expansion). In general you want the head to run a little cooler.
One thing I don't like in the rebuild pictorial is the way thet just throw in new crankshaft bearings. You really should measure the crank to yournal clearance first and then order bearings to suit...
Just throwing in a TRD headgasket after resurfacing the block and head is also a recipy for disaster. Just measure the cylinder to deck clearance and make sure that the total clearance inc the headgasket is around 0.9 to 1mm. (sometimes called the squish or quench clearance).

[ZaX]

Found this one on driftworks. :wink:

[Ivan141]

Sad to say it isnt all that simple. Getting the crankpulley off that way is not the best way and often doesnt work at all. Getting the timing belt cog of of the crank is also almost impossible. That's where I am stuck with my old 4age, it cant be 'levered' off. I cant find a puller that fits and wont damage it either.

[Plex]

Getting a crank pulley bolt loose is easy as hell lol

secure the socket on there, and use an extension so the end of the wrench sits on one of the framerails... and turn the car over with the starter.

[Mux213]

Plex,

thats a bit hard to do with the engine no longer inside the car....

[rikard]

Ivan141 Wrote:Sad to say it isnt all that simple. Getting the crankpulley off that way is not the best way and often doesnt work at all. Getting the timing belt cog of of the crank is also almost impossible. That's where I am stuck with my old 4age, it cant be 'levered' off. I cant find a puller that fits and wont damage it either.

I know what you mean, had to take mine off to replace the front crankshaft seal! Ended up cutting it off with a grinder right above the dowel. New pulley was 17 euro, new dowel 5 euro so that was not to bad!
Just be carefull you do not damage the crankshaft!