20v with 16v Water Relocation Kit
06-06-2014, 09:09 AM
Post: #1
20v with 16v Water Relocation Kit
GD mates! did not find the convincing answer about 16v waterlink setup on 20v BT, (without drilling the hole in had) just used unite backplate
does the 20v on this setup goes wrong?:
1.what with 4th cilinder does it overheat?
2. less power or bad responsive?
Thanks in advance!

Rising Sun T
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06-06-2014, 09:50 AM
Post: #2
20v with 16v Water Relocation Kit
read here http://s-86.com/technical_articles.php especially the cooling guide.

AE86 ex-daily
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06-06-2014, 01:16 PM
Post: #3
20v with 16v Water Relocation Kit
Nice one Bean!
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06-07-2014, 10:29 PM
Post: #4
20v with 16v Water Relocation Kit
didn't find the answer who use this setup

Rising Sun T
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06-07-2014, 10:46 PM
Post: #5
20v with 16v Water Relocation Kit
I'm going to user the RWD water system of the 16v Smile
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06-10-2014, 01:07 PM
Post: #6
20v with 16v Water Relocation Kit
16V Watersetup on 20V works well, done it on 2 AE86´s.

1979 Toyota Corolla KE35
1983 Toyota Corolla AE86
1985 Toyota Corolla AE86
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06-11-2014, 04:42 PM (This post was last modified: 06-11-2014 04:43 PM by D.O.)
Post: #7
20v with 16v Water Relocation Kit
thanx to all! i'm also use this setup, but why many Japan cars use (like t3) kit,
and many people talk that with 16 watersetup engine not run on full potential ??
[Image: AEU86 AE86 - 20v with 16v Water Relocation Kit]

Rising Sun T
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06-11-2014, 11:51 PM
Post: #8
20v with 16v Water Relocation Kit
According to the description provided by SQ Engineering on this
page http://s-86.com/s-newcoolingguide.html the real difference
is the temperature of the water passing inside the head on the inlet side.

[Image: AEU86 AE86 - 20v with 16v Water Relocation Kit]

16V system has the cool water from the radiator entering the block via
the pump and exiting the head at the front.

20V (OEM) system has the cool water from the radiator entering the rear
of the head, passing along the inlet side, then via the pump into the block
and out to the radiator from the rear of the head.

If you are running a simple in-line thermostat layout, the volume of water
circulating should be sufficient to maintain a low temperature gradient
across the engine (inlet to outlet). Therefore, I would not expect to see
any significant difference in performance between the OEM system and
the 16V RWD conversion.

I do have some reservations about the wisdom of running an in-line
thermostat without any provision for water by-pass during warmup.
The simple in-line thermostat relies on a single 3mm hole to maintain
circulation until the thermostst opens. The factory system uses a bypass
arrangement to maintain flow through the engine during warmup. This
will be more effective in preventing hot spots, and promoting even
temperature rise through the head and block.

I have not seen anything to suggest that the lack of a factory style
bypass is a problem, that's just my personal preference Smile

Cheers... jondee86
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06-12-2014, 12:25 AM
Post: #9
20v with 16v Water Relocation Kit
Im adapting the bypass on my 16V water route system... pretty easy actually...
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06-12-2014, 02:48 AM
Post: #10
20v with 16v Water Relocation Kit
Ideally, a modern dual action type thermostat gives the best temperature
regulation, as the bypass © is actually closed off once the coolant
reaches a certain temperature.

[Image: AEU86 AE86 - 20v with 16v Water Relocation Kit]

Thus there is no "short circuiting" of hot coolant when full radiator cooling
flow is required.

[Image: AEU86 AE86 - 20v with 16v Water Relocation Kit]

Probably not worth trying to implement such a system on an old engine,
but easy enough I would say if you were to use a remote thermostat housing.

Cheers... jondee86
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